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121. Re: Low oil pressure (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 08:19:51 -0400 (EDT); I've had the pressure relief valve fail on a race motor. I was lucky and "heard it" and I saw the oil pressure dropped to low numbers - 20 psi at 4000 RPMs. I only wrecked one rod bearing. There see; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00048.html (7,838 bytes)
122. Re: Re Low oil pressure (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 08:28:01 -0400 (EDT); I am not an engineer, so I cannot answer that question. I do read the owner's manual, and that says "20w50" during normal operating temps. I know a bunch of folks that have run the 10w40 (which BTW i; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00049.html (8,103 bytes)
123. Re: Low oil pressure (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 08:31:51 -0400 (EDT); Last word on this topic (for now): The oil pressure relief valve is an under $20 "fix" that takes 10 minutes - there's almost no reason NOT to do it! rml -- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for r; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00051.html (6,836 bytes)
124. Re: tr6 cam (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Fri, 6 May 2005 11:35:18 -0400 (EDT); What exactly do you need? StocK? Hi-po?? I'd be very leery of purchasing a used cam for a whole littany of reasons and bad experiences. You are much better off buying a regrind or better still a cam; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00093.html (7,428 bytes)
125. Re: Front suspension (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Mon, 9 May 2005 11:22:49 -0400 (EDT); I tried "tapping" the stub axles from a pile of uprights that I had. My success quotient as about 10%. I then brought a couple to the machinist who placed them on a 30 ton press. No go, they would n; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00114.html (7,045 bytes)
126. Re: TR6 Cam info (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Wed, 11 May 2005 11:44:38 -0400 (EDT); I know this is a bit dated, but there's a link out there with some really good info on building six-cyl. Triumph motors... http://www.kvaleberg.com/t_tune.html Lots of "good stuff". The pages have b; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00145.html (6,764 bytes)
127. Re: Cracked TR6 AutoX Rear X-Member (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Thu, 12 May 2005 12:12:34 -0400 (EDT); note - I tried replying to the ioriginator but the message bounced... Hi, Two things - you can probably get away with repairing the cracked welds, but get a good welder to do this job. It is not an i; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00163.html (7,283 bytes)
128. Re: Linkage hang up (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Wed, 18 May 2005 10:33:59 -0400 (EDT); There should be a 5/16" bolt on the firewall beneath the throttle pedal... this is a limiter. Adjust that bolt out 'till the bell-crank can't "over center". If the bolt is not on the firewall, note t; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00234.html (7,751 bytes)
129. RE: TR6 differential flanges (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Mon, 23 May 2005 13:50:32 -0400 (EDT); I need to toss out a minor correction... most anti-sieze compounds are based on nickle, not lead. Also, at the high end of the scale are copper-based compounds aka "coppa-slip". But the principle is; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00293.html (7,791 bytes)
130. RE: More tranny problems, w/ A type OD (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 11:30:09 -0400 (EDT); Bzzzzzt. Sorry, that is wrong. The A-type works in 2nd, 3rd and 4th. The J-type only works in 3rd and 4th. regards, rml -- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT unix-linux-help; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00315.html (7,992 bytes)
131. RE: More tranny problems, w/ A type OD (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 11:56:55 -0400 (EDT); No it was clear. I think the messages got out of synch on this thread. I sent my rpely something like a n hour ago. Oh well. It is funny how the harder we try to be unamibguous, the more ambiguous we; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00317.html (8,289 bytes)
132. Re: Good deal on webers? (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 14:25:28 -0400 (EDT); pretty good.... bwa ha ha ha ha... you are kidding, right. Grab those babies. Note that the Cannonintake manifold is the early style. These are much harder to come by. If you have a TR6 with an early; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00330.html (7,905 bytes)
133. Re: Good deal on webers? (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Wed, 25 May 2005 15:15:23 -0400 (EDT); Apparently my last response was unclear. To clarify, a starting price of $300 is _very good_ for a set of Weber DCOE 40's with the manifold and the other "stuff" in the deal. If you can buy the set; /html/6pack/2005-05/msg00331.html (7,147 bytes)
134. Re: ss flexible brake lines (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2005 12:50:21 -0500 (EST); You can buy them from pretty much any of the usual sources such as TRF, Moss, TS Imported etc. Do you need them? That is a question that only you can answer. The major benefit is that you get a "hard; /html/6pack/2005-04/msg00001.html (8,513 bytes)
135. Re: crank gear stuck (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 17:26:17 -0400 (EDT); Usa a gear puller. It'll come right off. The hardest part is finding a socker to slip into the bolt hole so you have something to "push" on. regards, rml -- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for re; /html/6pack/2005-04/msg00023.html (7,395 bytes)
136. Re: Smoking at the light (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2005 17:38:04 -0400 (EDT); Do a leakdown test. This will pinpoint the source of the oil (or coolant) in the combustion chambers. Once you figure out if the problem is rings or the head (head gasket and/or valves), then you can; /html/6pack/2005-04/msg00024.html (8,882 bytes)
137. Re: Smoking at the light (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 09:36:11 -0400 (EDT); All the above is good advice. However, I need to caution on the last statement - use iron guides. The stock guides are iron, but the replacement guides that are out there seem to be of dubious qualit; /html/6pack/2005-04/msg00045.html (9,410 bytes)
138. Re: Smoking at the light (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 11:26:48 -0400 (EDT); Ah - the old "we did the top end" problem. Answer: RINGS But get a leakdown test to confirm! The compression test will tell you which hole is bad (if in fact only one is bad). A wet test will make yo; /html/6pack/2005-04/msg00050.html (9,232 bytes)
139. Re: Smoking at the light (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 11:32:56 -0400 (EDT); Ooops - got ahead of myself. The smoke on startup indicates that "stuff" is entering the combustion chamber when the motor is off. I'd say "valve guides". A little smoke is okay, look at any 80's - 9; /html/6pack/2005-04/msg00052.html (9,968 bytes)
140. Re: Engine rebuilding questions (score: 1): Author: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>; Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 11:40:35 -0400 (EDT); If you had the cam bearings installed properly, the operation would involve a "line boring", the installation on the bearings and then the holes need to be "honed" to size with a "dingle ball hone".; /html/6pack/2005-04/msg00053.html (8,806 bytes)

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