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Re: clutch rebuilding

To: vintage-race@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: clutch rebuilding
From: Tom M <tmatycho@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Oct 2000 20:13:02 -0700

JWoesvra@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 10/13/2000 9:27:34 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> brian@uunet.ca writes:
> 
> <<  A final thought for racers; it is really better to go to a Tilton style
>  > > clutch. This eliminates the deficiencies of the Borg & Beck type which is
>  > > prone to high rpm failure.  They also work well in oily conditions. >>
> 
> Gee, I always thought that a small diameter multiplate clutch only became
> available in the last 15 years or so .  To my way of thinking that makes it
> fit the perfect description of a "non-vintage" modification akin to roller
> rocker arms or a belt drive conversion on a BMC "A' series engine.  If I
> remember correctly, the SCCA rules thoughout the 60s and 70s required the
> use of a clutch of standard diameter and type of construction in all
> production cars.
>                                                                     Regards,
> Greg Solow
> 
> Apparently Mr. Solow, you would prefer that your "original" leg and foot be
> torn off   by your "original' type clutch. 

I, of course, defer to your superior knowledge of such matters, and
would like to know exactly how many vintage racers have been parted from
their original legs and/or feet by orginal-type clutches.

> While you're at it, why not have
> Rupert mil-spec lap belts from WWII and borax soaked cotton coveralls?

I know that the modern equipment is considered to be much safer, but I
am not aware of the performance advantage of using modern successors to
these type materials.  Could you explain what they are?

Thank you very much for your help.

Tom M.

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