Gee, I always thought that a small diameter multiplate clutch only became
available in the last 15 years or so . To my way of thinking that makes it
fit the perfect description of a "non-vintage" modification akin to roller
rocker arms or a belt drive conversion on a BMC "A' series engine. If I
remember correctly, the SCCA rules thoughout the 60s and 70s required the
use of a clutch of standard diameter and type of construction in all
production cars.
Regards,
Greg Solow
The Engine Room
Santa Cruz, Ca.
----- Original Message -----
From: <JWoesvra@aol.com>
To: <ericsmgs@prodigy.net>; <lwdent@fwi.com>; <mgvrmark@hotmail.com>
Cc: <grand_wazoo@flinet.com>; <malcox@sonic.net>;
<vintage-race@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 4:33 AM
Subject: Re: clutch rebuilding
> In a message dated 10/5/00 6:35:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> ericsmgs@prodigy.net writes:
>
> << Joint and Clutch in Charlotte, NC >>
>
>
> I use Joint and Clutch in Columbia, SC. They built new half-shafts for my
GT6
> when I converted to Datsun outer hubs. Triumph flange on inboard end,
Datsun
> flange on the outer. Work great. They can make any drive-line component
you
> need. Of course they reline brakes and clutches too.
>
> However, I'm sure that every big city has a similar service. Many have
been
> in business for a long time and may still have real asbestos lining
material
> such as Grey Rock hidden in the back. They are not supposed to use it any
> more, but there is nothing better for drum brakes if you can find it.
>
> A final thought for racers; it is really better to go to a Tilton style
> clutch. This eliminates the deficiencies of the Borg & Beck type which is
> prone to high rpm failure. They also work well in oily conditions.
>
> Jack Woehrle
>
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