I also have the original B&B 7-1/4 from my Lotus 20/22. It also used an alloy
ring to space out the PP from the flywheel, but both the ring and friction face
were recessed into the flywheel by .100", which tended to locate the ring. The
PP is identical bolt circle to the current designs and the only reason I'm not
using it is because the mating flywheel is still the Ford iron item which was
lighted and modified to the clutch and I feel safer with a steel one.
Roger
>>> Brian Evans <brian@uunet.ca> 10/13/00 09:26AM >>>
The Martin/Ford engine that was in my Merlyn had a 7.25 inch clutch in
1966. To be sure, it was described in the invoice (which I also have,
believe it or not) as a Porche clutch of some type, but it is (I still have
the original clutch as well, the PO's for this car kept everything!) a bolt
in match for the Quartermaster clutch of essentially identical design now
on that engine. Bolt circle is the same, it has a "thick slotted ring"
(quote from the invoice) to space the pressure plate off the flywheel,
etc. The only significant difference is that it used an organic type disc,
so that I had to machine a .100" step in the flywheel to accommodate the
thin metallic disc that the Quartermaster clutch uses and I think it has a
pressure disc to actuate the spring fingers, while the Quartermaster has
the throw-out bearing act directly on the spring fingers.
Now, this was a single plate clutch, to be sure, but I found this all very
interesting...
Brian
At 02:07 AM 10/13/00 -0400, Greg Solow wrote:
>Gee, I always thought that a small diameter multiplate clutch only became
>available in the last 15 years or so . To my way of thinking that makes it
>fit the perfect description of a "non-vintage" modification akin to roller
>rocker arms or a belt drive conversion on a BMC "A' series engine. If I
>remember correctly, the SCCA rules thoughout the 60s and 70s required the
>use of a clutch of standard diameter and type of construction in all
>production cars.
> Regards,
>Greg Solow
>
>The Engine Room
>
>Santa Cruz, Ca.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <JWoesvra@aol.com>
>To: <ericsmgs@prodigy.net>; <lwdent@fwi.com>; <mgvrmark@hotmail.com>
>Cc: <grand_wazoo@flinet.com>; <malcox@sonic.net>;
><vintage-race@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 4:33 AM
>Subject: Re: clutch rebuilding
>
>
> > In a message dated 10/5/00 6:35:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> > ericsmgs@prodigy.net writes:
> >
> > << Joint and Clutch in Charlotte, NC >>
> >
> >
> > I use Joint and Clutch in Columbia, SC. They built new half-shafts for my
>GT6
> > when I converted to Datsun outer hubs. Triumph flange on inboard end,
>Datsun
> > flange on the outer. Work great. They can make any drive-line component
>you
> > need. Of course they reline brakes and clutches too.
> >
> > However, I'm sure that every big city has a similar service. Many have
>been
> > in business for a long time and may still have real asbestos lining
>material
> > such as Grey Rock hidden in the back. They are not supposed to use it any
> > more, but there is nothing better for drum brakes if you can find it.
> >
> > A final thought for racers; it is really better to go to a Tilton style
> > clutch. This eliminates the deficiencies of the Borg & Beck type which is
> > prone to high rpm failure. They also work well in oily conditions.
> >
> > Jack Woehrle
> >
Brian Evans
Director, Strategic Accounts
UUNET, A WorldCom Company
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