Nolan wrote:
>
> The one who posted about using cut down GT6 springs was me.
>
> I measured 2 coils by simply dropping a straight line down from the end
> of the spring wire, not from where it started to taper. No, I did not
> grind down or otherwise flatten the end of the coil, there's no need. I
> did position the cut end at on the top, since the upper perch is more
> stable then the lower perch mounted on the shock. No wild fancy
> measuring or cutting was performed. Just basic shop tools and a visual
> straight line.
>
> The ride is actually smoother with the cut down GT6 springs then with
> the stock 1500 springs. Go figure. My only theory is that my shocks
> are so worn, going over bumps with the stock 1500 springs would result
> in the wheel rising too high, giving a jarring ride. The jarring is
> less with the cut down GT6 springs. Body roll is substantially reduced
> as well.
>
> Both the cut down GT6 springs and the earlier 1300 springs will lower
> the nose, thereby increasing the negative camber a bit. As such, both
> would improve handling.
>
> You could also successfully cut down the stock 1500 springs as well, and
> that would be free. I would suggest going a coil at a time until you
> get the effect you want.
It might have been ME, though! I cut down GT6 springs by measuring off two
coils and using a cutoff saw to shorten them. Then I cross sawed the cut
end to taper it and heated the very end to bend it down flat. The flat ends
are necessary so that the spring sits properly in the perches. The
length of the springs after modification are 10-1/4 inches. Any shorter than
that will cause the spring to flop around inside the perches when the
suspension is at the full dropped position.
Incidently, I had a pair of 450 pound rated coils made for the front of Tiny
Tim and it induced so much push that the car is virtually unturnable on
sharp transitions. This week the cut down GT6 coils go back on. I'll know how
that works next Sunday.
Regards,
Joe (always experimenting) Curry
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