I hope you can get your money back on the fan.
This is why I am always nagging people to diagnose problems
fully before replacing or adding expensive components.
Note: The Hyundai temp gauge may be designed to
work with a sender with different characteristics than the Spit's
sender. But your thermometer probably didn't lie.
If your gas gauge works, I doubt the voltage regulator is busted.
A new temp sender is $6.99 (from SpitBits). It's so cheap, you should
just order a new one, or see of the local parts store can get one.
BTW, my '72 has a well-maintained but original radiator,
the stock thermostat and fan, a 7 lb. radiator cap, and no oil cooler.
It runs with temperature almost always at the 50% level.
If I am stuck in traffic on a 90-degree day, it rises to about 75%.
It NEVER overheats.
A MK III with even less pollution stuff should be able to do at least
as well.
Good luck,
Doug Braun
'72 Spit
At 11:01 AM 5/17/02 , Livia I. Haasper wrote:
>Before we wanted to remove the rad for re-boring, as suggested by several
>people, we flushed the rad. This didn't seem to improve the situation. Next
>thing was to test the sensor unit. No problem here. The test of the coolant,
>however, gave us a surprise, as it only showed a tem. of 155 F. Hello????
>This is where "our red light" came on.
>We decided to test the functioning of the voltage stabilizer, as Jeff Mc.
>Neill had suggested to me. We pulled up our reliable Hyundai, connected the
>temperature sensor of the Spit to the temperature gauge of the Hyundai. We
>were now able to correctly read the temperature of the Spitfire on the Hyundai
>gauge. She ran at about 55% at about 3500 rpm, increasing to 60 -65 % at 4000
>rpm. That looks pretty decent to me. We didn't test any higher.
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