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Re: Paint and brake fluid

To: Terry Thompson <firespiter@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Paint and brake fluid
From: Joe Curry <spitlist@gte.net>
Date: Wed, 01 Aug 2001 13:12:04 -0700
Terry Thompson wrote:
> 
> There are lots of resources on Triumph web sites
> regarding the use of Silicone brake fluid. I've been
> tempted to use it in the past, but can't come to grips
> with the disadvantages.
> 
> Even though it does not damage paint. It is however:
> 
> - Not usable with DOT3 or LMA fluid (which is why all
> of the elements of the system should be removed
> preferably and flushed well with denatured alcohol.)

Not a problem!  Easy to do and not absolutely necessary to rebuild all the 
components to convert.


> - Not carried by all auto parts places, which can be
> problematic if you get a leak during a drive and try
> to limp to the nearest auto parts place/garage for a
> top off. (Though I have seen it being carried by more
> and more places!)

Just carry a bottle with you!


> - It's not hydroscopic, and humidity tends to "puddle"
> in the lines and cylinders which can promote rust in
> steel parts. I understand that this tends to be more
> problematic in cars that sit for a long time.

So drive your care more often.. Without the worry about brake fluid ruining 
your paint, it's much easier to justify driving the cat more.


> - Twice the cost of LMA fluid.

But much less than a new paint job!


> - been stated by some that have made the switch from
> LMA complain of a "softness" in the pedal.

That is likely due to soft rubber hoses.  Replace them with Stainless braided 
ones and forget about it.


> - Does have a higher boiling point but heat
> dissipation is not as good as the mineral based LMA.
> So they're effectively about the same performance
> wise. Though I understand that race enthusiasts prefer
> the LMA, though this may be due to the "soft" pedal.

I use it on my race car and have had no problems with it over heating.

> 
> I have decided that when it's time to repaint the
> firewall shelf that I will buy a piece of sheet
> stainless steel or aluminum from the hardware store
> and make myself a pan to sit under the master
> cylinders (a 1/8" to 1/4" lip should be all that's
> required for a slow leak). The only problem will be
> sealing up the mounting holes with some gasket
> material that won't allow fluid dripping into the pan
> to leak beyond it. I figure, at worst, a dab of JB
> weld will serve.

Why go to all that trouble and expense when the DOT5 is a much better and less 
troublesome solution.

> 
> Does anyone know if black silicone adhesive, blue rtv,
> ultra blue or copper rtv are impervious to LMA/mineral
> fluid? (I was planning on putting a dab of each in old
> contact lense storage cases and doing a little science
> experiment.)

Don't know!

Regards,
Joe

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