Jack,
What makes you think 'we' would need a clutch that works well in
OILY conditions? My Corvair Yenko Stinger apparently was designed with
proper (external) oil flow.....
More seriously, what is Grey Rock? The special metallics of the
60's are the ones for my drum brakes. Is Grey Rock the same thing. or real
asbestos?
Thanks,
Chuck Sadek
YS 73
> -----Original Message-----
> From: JWoesvra@aol.com [SMTP:JWoesvra@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 6:33 AM
> To: ericsmgs@prodigy.net; lwdent@fwi.com; mgvrmark@hotmail.com
> Cc: grand_wazoo@flinet.com; malcox@sonic.net;
> vintage-race@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: clutch rebuilding
>
> In a message dated 10/5/00 6:35:08 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> ericsmgs@prodigy.net writes:
>
> << Joint and Clutch in Charlotte, NC >>
>
>
> I use Joint and Clutch in Columbia, SC. They built new half-shafts for my
> GT6
> when I converted to Datsun outer hubs. Triumph flange on inboard end,
> Datsun
> flange on the outer. Work great. They can make any drive-line component
> you
> need. Of course they reline brakes and clutches too.
>
> However, I'm sure that every big city has a similar service. Many have
> been
> in business for a long time and may still have real asbestos lining
> material
> such as Grey Rock hidden in the back. They are not supposed to use it any
> more, but there is nothing better for drum brakes if you can find it.
>
> A final thought for racers; it is really better to go to a Tilton style
> clutch. This eliminates the deficiencies of the Borg & Beck type which is
> prone to high rpm failure. They also work well in oily conditions.
>
> Jack Woehrle
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