According to the parts manual, the post-60000 stanchions are different, and
do not require the plate. I seem to recall that there was actually a piece
of cork that sealed the front edge on the later stanchions, but this isn't
shown in the manual. On my pre-60000 car, there is certainly room for
water to get in (although I may be simply missing the cork piece <g>)
I've had my windshield off several times, and it isn't particularly hard,
even without help. The toughest part for me is getting the wipers off <g>
Randall
On Friday, February 26, 1999 5:35 PM, Musson, Carl
[SMTP:musson@satie.arts.usf.edu] wrote:
>
> Although the function of the dzus springs on the pre-60000 is not needed,
I
> believe that the plate should be still used. The stanchion itself is
> slotted to allow for easy removal (has anyone ever really tried that..
not
> easy...) from the plate. If it is mounted by just using the screws, there
is
> the possibility of dropping, shifting, scraping the windshield while
> removing the screws. Also, the slot would leave a gap between the body
and
> the stanchion which would allow our "friend" water into an area where it
is
> definitely not wanted.
>
> Since the spring-less plate is not very common. It is possible that
simply
> removing the pins and springs from the earlier version will make it
useful
> for the post-60000 car. Bob - Have you had any luck yet?
>
> Later,
> Carl F. Musson,
>
> You can't tell which way the car went by just looking at the road...
> TR3A's - TS25264L ('58 Almost Daily Driver)
> & TS81802LO - ('61 Concours d'Wannabe)
> Tampa, Florida (USA)
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alex van Zanten [mailto:A.van.Zanten@inter.nl.net]
> Sent: Friday, February 26, 1999 5:09 AM
> To: Bush4brits@aol.com; triumphs
> Subject: Re: stanchion plates
>
>
> I was able to check out a post TS60000 model and saw no
> stanchion plates were
> used. The stanchions are screwed to the scuttle without any
> packing pieces what so
> ever. In the pre TS60000 models two oval holes are present
> to provide space for
> the S-shaped springs of a stanchion plate. I conclude you
> don't need the plates
> and have to screw your stanchion directly to the scuttle.
>
> Regards. Alex.
> '58 TR3a (TS38168L)
>
>
> Bush4brits@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Got the stanchion plates today, Mike.....thanks.
> > Sent the check out yesterday....you should get it in a day
> or so.
> > I need your help on this.....I thought I had it all down;
> but I don't think
> > so.
> > Recall the plates: There are 2 sets of mounting holes; one
> set is countersunk
> > for flat head screws and outside of these is a set of
> through holes with the
> > Dzus "s" wire on the backside of the plate. The outside
> holes (with the Dzus
> > "s" wire) lines up with the holes in the stanchions. If
> this is supposed to be
> > a through hole (straight into the scuttle, since they do
> line up), how am I
> > supposed to get the flat head screw through the "s" wire
> that's in the way?
> > Beyond that, how is the plate supposed to lie flat against
> the scuttle with
> > the pins and "s" wire protruding on the scuttle side of
> the plate (remember,
> > the opposite side of the plate is keyed to accept the
> stanchion).
> > The pre-60000 bodies must have a pocket built into the
> scuttle (for the pins
> > and Dzus "s" wire) to allow the plate to fit flush with
> it. That would make
> > sense. My car doesn't have this pocket.
> > The fix is easy enough, I'll just grind the pins off and
> remove everything
> > from the scuttle side of the plate..........but I was just
> wondering. Any
> > thoughts?
>
>
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