I was able to check out a post TS60000 model and saw no stanchion plates were
used. The stanchions are screwed to the scuttle without any packing pieces what
so
ever. In the pre TS60000 models two oval holes are present to provide space for
the S-shaped springs of a stanchion plate. I conclude you don't need the plates
and have to screw your stanchion directly to the scuttle.
Regards. Alex.
'58 TR3a (TS38168L)
Bush4brits@aol.com wrote:
> Got the stanchion plates today, Mike.....thanks.
> Sent the check out yesterday....you should get it in a day or so.
> I need your help on this.....I thought I had it all down; but I don't think
> so.
> Recall the plates: There are 2 sets of mounting holes; one set is countersunk
> for flat head screws and outside of these is a set of through holes with the
> Dzus "s" wire on the backside of the plate. The outside holes (with the Dzus
> "s" wire) lines up with the holes in the stanchions. If this is supposed to be
> a through hole (straight into the scuttle, since they do line up), how am I
> supposed to get the flat head screw through the "s" wire that's in the way?
> Beyond that, how is the plate supposed to lie flat against the scuttle with
> the pins and "s" wire protruding on the scuttle side of the plate (remember,
> the opposite side of the plate is keyed to accept the stanchion).
> The pre-60000 bodies must have a pocket built into the scuttle (for the pins
> and Dzus "s" wire) to allow the plate to fit flush with it. That would make
> sense. My car doesn't have this pocket.
> The fix is easy enough, I'll just grind the pins off and remove everything
> from the scuttle side of the plate..........but I was just wondering. Any
> thoughts?
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