Although the function of the dzus springs on the pre-60000 is not needed, I
believe that the plate should be still used. The stanchion itself is
slotted to allow for easy removal (has anyone ever really tried that.. not
easy...) from the plate. If it is mounted by just using the screws, there is
the possibility of dropping, shifting, scraping the windshield while
removing the screws. Also, the slot would leave a gap between the body and
the stanchion which would allow our "friend" water into an area where it is
definitely not wanted.
Since the spring-less plate is not very common. It is possible that simply
removing the pins and springs from the earlier version will make it useful
for the post-60000 car. Bob - Have you had any luck yet?
Later,
Carl F. Musson,
You can't tell which way the car went by just looking at the road...
TR3A's - TS25264L ('58 Almost Daily Driver)
& TS81802LO - ('61 Concours d'Wannabe)
Tampa, Florida (USA)
-----Original Message-----
From: Alex van Zanten [mailto:A.van.Zanten@inter.nl.net]
Sent: Friday, February 26, 1999 5:09 AM
To: Bush4brits@aol.com; triumphs
Subject: Re: stanchion plates
I was able to check out a post TS60000 model and saw no
stanchion plates were
used. The stanchions are screwed to the scuttle without any
packing pieces what so
ever. In the pre TS60000 models two oval holes are present
to provide space for
the S-shaped springs of a stanchion plate. I conclude you
don't need the plates
and have to screw your stanchion directly to the scuttle.
Regards. Alex.
'58 TR3a (TS38168L)
Bush4brits@aol.com wrote:
> Got the stanchion plates today, Mike.....thanks.
> Sent the check out yesterday....you should get it in a day
or so.
> I need your help on this.....I thought I had it all down;
but I don't think
> so.
> Recall the plates: There are 2 sets of mounting holes; one
set is countersunk
> for flat head screws and outside of these is a set of
through holes with the
> Dzus "s" wire on the backside of the plate. The outside
holes (with the Dzus
> "s" wire) lines up with the holes in the stanchions. If
this is supposed to be
> a through hole (straight into the scuttle, since they do
line up), how am I
> supposed to get the flat head screw through the "s" wire
that's in the way?
> Beyond that, how is the plate supposed to lie flat against
the scuttle with
> the pins and "s" wire protruding on the scuttle side of
the plate (remember,
> the opposite side of the plate is keyed to accept the
stanchion).
> The pre-60000 bodies must have a pocket built into the
scuttle (for the pins
> and Dzus "s" wire) to allow the plate to fit flush with
it. That would make
> sense. My car doesn't have this pocket.
> The fix is easy enough, I'll just grind the pins off and
remove everything
> from the scuttle side of the plate..........but I was just
wondering. Any
> thoughts?
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