Peter,
I think your concern is valid. I own a '73 TR6 which gets driven about
1000 miles a year. I've had this LBC for 9 years and the engine was
rebuilt professionally by the previous owner.
In the first couple of months that I owned the LBC I took off the
oil pan and plastic gauged the main and rod journals just to get a
warm fuzzy over the rebuild. Right on specs!
In the fourth year of ownership the LBC developed a main bearing
knock. I felt the possibility of excessive bearing wear was a potential
problem due to the infrequent driving of the car. My fears came to be.
As far as I'm concerned the "dry starts" are a problem for a car that
is not driven every 3-4 days. I'll be rebuilding this summer and I'll
put on a "pre-oiler" to protect my investment in parts and labor.
What's another $450-500 bucks when you've already got thousands
invested?
Russell Bury
'73 TR6 (Love It-but seldom drive it)
Augusta, GA
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>
To: 'TR6 List' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, April 20, 1998 12:45 PM
Subject: wiring question
>
>I recently posted a question to the list about the benefits of allowing
>engine oil pressure to build before actually firing up the engine vs.
>letting it build up once the engine is actually started. Thanks to the
>responses of several list members, I am now convinced this is a
>desirable action and I thus wish to be able to (easily) control it.
>
>I would therefore like to add the following modification to my TR6's
>wiring and am seeking the wisdom of the list to point out any potential
>errors in my assumptions.
>
>In order to allow the starter to turn the engine but avoid starting it
>(especially now with the Ignitor installed ;-} ), I wish to add an
>in-car switch to control power to the coil. Since I have the Lucas sport
>coil hooked up to the white terminal of my fusebox already, my plan
>involves simply running this wire from the fusebox to a switch in the
>car and then from the switch out to the coil. When the switch is "on"
>the coil gets power, when "off" the coil gets no power but the starter
>will still turn the engine.
>
>So a few questions come to mind...
>
>1. Is the setup as described appropriate or am I really missing
>something and greatly oversimplifying the problem?
>
>2. What type of switch is best to use? I have considered a spring loaded
>push button switch which is normally "on" and goes to "off" when the
>button is pressed. That way the default behavior is "normal" but if I
>want to cut power to the coil I just press the button and crank away
>until my oil pres. gauge shows pressure.
>
>Alternatively I could use a toggle or rocker switch and possibly use the
>switch as a simple theft prevention device (although I realize this is
>not foolproof).
>
>3. What should the ratings of the switch be? Any minimum current? I
>assume 12 volt is adequate. Any other ratings to consider?
>
>4. Any other words of wisdom from anyone on the list about this topic?
>
>Looking forward to opinions/experiences. Greatly appreciated, as always.
>
>Peter Zaborski
>76 TR6 (CF58310 UO)
>Calgary AB Canada
>
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