Jeff,
Hi Jeff,
The dangers, such as disintegrating rubber parts, have been covered by some
smart people on the list. I learned a lot from them. The reason I know
what was already in there is that I rebuilt the whole system a coupla years
ago, after draining all the old fluid. Took apart all wheel cylinders,
both master cylinders, and clutch slave cylinder, and put all new rubber
parts in. I then filled the system with the Lucas-Girling approved Castrol
brake fluid and bled the system.
Two more comments: Last Fall I had to put in my second brake light
pressure switch. The first, from Moss, only lasted a year. The second,
from TRF, is still OK so far. Also, when I rebuilt the brake system, I
didn't replace the flexible rubber brake lines with the woven metal covered
ones. I wish I did. I think I'll do it this Spring, since I have to
invade the system anyway to replace a busted bleed valve, already discussed
here.
I saw a TR-6 on Water Street in Framingham last Saturday night. Was that
you by any chance?
Sumner Weisman
62 TR3-B
----------
> From: jbonina@nectech.com
> To: Sumner Weisman <sweisman@gis.net>; Joe Curry <spitlist@gte.net>
> Cc: Barry Schwartz <bschwart@pacbell.net>; Triumphs
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re[2]: Dumb Question N0. 2,745
> Date: Monday, April 20, 1998 10:13 AM
>
> Here's the 64-thousand dollar question.
>
> If you are adding brake fluid to a car, how do you know what type is
> already in there? What are the dangers of mixing different types?
>
>
> Jeff
>
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator
> Subject: Re: Dumb Question N0. 2,745
> Author: Joe Curry <spitlist@gte.net> at SMTP
> Date: 4/17/98 2:35 PM
>
>
>
> Sumner,
> Castrol makes a compatible product that is approved. I have found it
> available in many auto parts stores. It's called GTLMA Brake Fluid.
>
> Joe Curry
>
> Sumner Weisman wrote:
> >
> > Barry,
> >
> > Thanks for the input. When I rebuilt all the hydraulics a coupla years
> > ago, I put in Castrol brake fluid labeled "Lucas Girling, Exceeds Dot 3
and
> > Dot 4. Now, I can't seem to find this stuff in my local store, and was
> > wondering about the silicone, which I've never used. I understand your
> > concern about not mixing silicone with the old stuff. If I drain the
bleed
> > valves at all 4 wheels as well as the clutch slave cylinder, I think
that
> > there will still be a little old fluid in the system, so I don't think
I
> > will use the silicone. Guess I'll look around further for the fluid
I
> > used before. It seems foolish to have to order it by mail.
> >
> > Sumner
> >
> > ----------
> > > From: Barry Schwartz <bschwart@pacbell.net>
> > > To: Sumner Weisman <sweisman@gis.net>
> > > Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: Dumb Question N0. 2,745
> > > Date: Friday, April 17, 1998 10:29 AM
> > >
> > > Summer writes:
> > > >All my beliefs are being blown out of the water. Here I have been
> > > >conscientiously using lead additive in my TR-3, and now people on
this
> > list
> > > >are telling me I don't need it and plain unleaded gas is fine, and
that
> > the
> > > >valves will last for many years.
> > > **************************************
> > > No all your beliefs are not blown out of the water. If you have a no
or
> > > pre lead head, AND it has had a steady diet of lead at one time, then
> > > enough residual lead remains to lubricate the valves and/or seats.
Using
> > > unleaded under these conditions and without prolonged high
speed/heavy
> > load
> > > you probably won't see any undue valve seat recession. On rebuild
it's
> > > false economy to not replace the exhaust valve seats and exhaust
valves
> > > with ones designed to run on unleaded fuel as you WILL have premature
> > > (exhaust) valve and seat wear. If you constantly run your engine to
> > > redline, and floor it all the time, then again you will see
accelerated
> > > valve seat recession with a pre-lead head weather it's had lead at
one
> > time
> > > or not. As for pinging or knocking mentioned in another thread, it
IS
> > > damaging to your engine no matter how slight. Knocking or pinging is
an
> > > uncontrolled explosion that puts undesigned stress on the piston
crowns,
> > > wrist pins, rod bearings and big end bearings. As for you engine
system
> > > check indicators, they are not designed to indicate wear or problems
in
> > > those areas and its just a matter of time before something will break
or
> > > wear out earlier than an engine operated as designed-
> > > ****************************************
> > > >OK, let me ask about another possible myth I've been living with.
What
> > > >about the warnings that say that I should only use Girling approved
> > brake
> > > >fluid? Can I use any good Dot 3 or Dot 4 fluid?
> > > ****************************************
> > > Yes it has been discussed before but as listers come and go these
will be
> > > brought up again and again. That's how the new people learn, and I
for
> > one
> > > don't mind repeating. After all we were all *new* listers once :-}.
> > Those
> > > warnings are valid. If your system is a stock Girling system, that
has
> > not
> > > been rebuilt and ready for new fluid, then DO NOT MIX FLUIDS and
don't
> > use
> > > Dot 3. Dot 4 Girling fluid is designed for the natural rubber seals
in
> > > your system and using Dot 3 WILL damage those seals causing
pre-mature
> > > failure. If you have completely rebuilt and flushed the entire
system,
> > > then you may chose either Dot 5, or Dot 4, but again, NEVER mix
fluids,
> > > most are not compatible, and after all, with the exception of Dot 5
> > > (silicon), these fluids are relatively inexpensive. Why take a
chance
> > with
> > > such important systems in your vehicle just to save a few pennys??
> > >
> > > Barry Schwartz (San Diego) bschwart@pacbell.net
> > >
> > > 72 V6 Spitfire (daily driver)
> > > 70 GT6+ (when I don't drive the Spit)
> > > 70 Spitfire (project)
> > > 73 Ford Courier (parts hauler, rain vehicle, getting a V6 soon!)
>
> --
> "If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
>
> -- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
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