Well, if you have power at red on the fuse block, the fuse and block are ok.
That power should disappear when the switch is turned off. If red has 12v at
the fuse block, check for 12v at red on the rheostat, same wire. If no 12v
at the rheostat red, then you may have pulled a connector apart while
fishing around under the dash. Red from the fuse block goes through a
bullet connector somewhere in the dash and splits into 2 reds, one to the
rheostat, one to the rear marker and parking lights. Try and follow the
path of the red from the rheostat back to the bullet connector and check the
integrity of that connection.
Jim Altman jaltman@altlaw.com non illegitimus carborundum
http://www.altlaw.com/ 69-TR6#CC28754L W4UCK
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark S. Lepore, M.D. [mailto:Sirmoog@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Monday, March 23, 1998 10:35 AM
To: Jim Altman
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: TR6 wiring help please !!
jaltman@altlaw.com wrote:
Take a volt meter and see if there is 12v on the red/green wire at the fuse
> block. If yes, then see if there is 12v at the red wire. If no, either
the
> fuse is bad or the fuse holder itself is bad.
>
> If there is no 12v at the r/g wire into the fuse block then the r/g wire
> running from the light switch to the fuse block is bad.
Jim:
I just double-checked. I have 12v at the red-green wire, and across the
fuse
box. This goes to zero if the light switch is moved to the off position.
I'm not so sure about the red and red/white at the rheostat, though. My
meter
is an auto-switch kind, so it won't give me volts at the rheostat, just
ohms.
It seems I'm getting a reading regardless of whether the light switch if off
or
on. I also checked one of the instrument light sockets, and was getting an
ohm
reading regardless of the light switch.
However, the instrument lights were working just fine prior to me installing
the
switch, so I think the circuit must be ok. Any other ideas?
Thanks,
Sirmoog
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