I would suggest that it won't let you read volts at the rheostat because
there are none. Try making a temporary jumper wire from the red side of the
fuse block to the red side of the rheostat. If it comes alive, the red wire
is broken between the fuse block and the rheostat, probably at the dividing
connector. If that brings it alive try jumping from the red at the fuse
block to the red that goes to the rheostat from the bullet connector, if no
go then jumper from the bullet connector to the rheostat. This way you will
isolate which section of red wire is bad. If your rear marker lights don't
work, its the red from the fuse to the bullet connector, if the rear markers
do work, it'll be the bullet connector to the rheostat thats bad.
Jim Altman jaltman@altlaw.com non illegitimus carborundum
http://www.altlaw.com/ 69-TR6#CC28754L W4UCK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Mark S. Lepore, M.D.
Sent: Monday, March 23, 1998 11:19 AM
To: Jim Altman
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: TR6 wiring help please !!
jaltman@altlaw.com wrote:
> Well, if you have power at red on the fuse block, the fuse and block are
ok.
> That power should disappear when the switch is turned off. If red has 12v
at
> the fuse block, check for 12v at red on the rheostat, same wire.
I wish I could check the volts at the rheostat. I am only reading ohms (I
don't
know why).
> If no 12v
> at the rheostat red, then you may have pulled a connector apart while
> fishing around under the dash. Red from the fuse block goes through a
> bullet connector somewhere in the dash and splits into 2 reds, one to the
> rheostat, one to the rear marker and parking lights. Try and follow the
> path of the red from the rheostat back to the bullet connector and check
the
> integrity of that connection.
Jim,
I have checked the integrity as you suggested, but everything looks ok. Any
other ideas?
Sirmoog
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