I tried the rope trick once, but it wouldn't work for me. I ended up
pushing the head off using a hydraulic jack. On the manifold side of
the cylinder head, there are a series of "n" shaped slots cast in. I
put a jack under the car, and put a long piece of metal (the 3 ft.
long-arm wrench used to remove the octagonal nut off wire wheels)
between the jack and the slots in the head. Then jacked. The head
came off no problem.
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- John <jhardt@columbus.rr.com> wrote:
> Date: Sat, 04 May 2002 22:07:42 -0400
> Subject: Re: Valve replacement for a newbie?
> From: John <jhardt@columbus.rr.com>
> To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Reply-to: John <jhardt@columbus.rr.com>
>
> Thanks to everyone for your responses regarding my broken valve
> problem.
>
> My mechanic says he'd be willing to help me out if I get in over my
> head so
> I decided to "wade in" and see what happens. I figured I'd take a
> look and
> see what condition the head, valves, and pistons are in before
> deciding how
> far to go with a rebuild - and who should do it. (I only paid $3K
> for this
> car so dropping in a new engine is out of the question). I also want
> to see
> if there is an obvious reason why the valve/spring/rocker broke.
> (The car
> wasn't driven for two years before I bought it - think that might
> have
> something to do with it?)
>
> So anyway, here's where I am: I used the instructions in a shop
> manual to
> remove the head cover, water pump, manifolds, rocker assembly, etc.
> but I
> need advice on pulling off the head. I've removed all the bolts (in
> the
> proper order) and disconnected the manifolds etc but the head won't
> budge.
> I've tried hitting it with a rubber mallet, rocking it, and even
> turned the
> engine by hand to no avail - the thing won't budge! Does anybody
> have any
> tricks for getting off a stuck head?
>
> John
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