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Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil

To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
From: Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net>
Date: Sat, 16 Mar 2024 19:50:27 -0700
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAKjtSfjp45=MK_b=-qm4mXQx5LmUCPV2wRo2X5XK4JgTPx_gRA@mail.gmail.com> <CALPtYiPMx9s6Xedh1yasAsWs7BViv6m_2eAFmPrmqhQe9KBf0Q@mail.gmail.com> <CALPtYiNUOUmadKhEVbu-W_nWx687Qt+XGkSML+WueoujYp0a8Q@mail.gmail.com> <CAKjtSfgJmiy5B+zQJQYdjzUpcRPatniUQ2E9vqv7WXmDNyV8sQ@mail.gmail.com> <1555225143.3803960.1710515131345@mail.yahoo.com> <4dfe4830-e588-40fd-a526-34a705283484@comcast.net> <CAB3i7LKF4yahCRx55wi7-FDP8jwfo_s_8qnTT8Ytf++UTy-QTw@mail.gmail.com>
--===============2706323588944900598==

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Thank you and I do like the look of that lo temp silver solder for other
applications and maybe if I haven't fixed it.
There is no definitive crack as such. It is block cast iron porosity. It
oozes very slowly from an area of about 1.5 x 1 in.
Access is limited too. Just hoping that there are no other porous areas.
A proper fix to my mind would be engine out; block stripped and vacuum
resin impregnation - probably not going to happen for now
What intrigues me is that this is in exactly the same location as Wayne's
friend had.
So it surely is a weakness of this block ?
Wonder how many others there are out there - some maybe unknown too ?
I only picked it up by noting the creamy damp gunge in the inside of the
valve cover.
Remember too that less than a teaspoon of glycol in the oil triggers the
oil analysis alarm.
rg
rg


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On Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 7:54=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail=
.com>
wrote:

> I am definitely not an expert however I have successfully repaired some
> irreplaceable cast Iron water pump impellers using this product.
> https://www.silfos.com/EN/Products/EASY-FLO-45.htm
> I opted to use this because a very much lower temperature is required.
>
> M
>
> On Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 10:12=E2=80=AFAM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.ne=
t> wrote:
>
>> MIG/TIG isn't usually effective on cast iron. Brazing might be your best
>> bet, and plenty strong. I brazed a mis-sized plug on a so-called 'uprate=
d'
>> water pump for my BN2 that wouldn't otherwise seal up and the result was
>> good, but I feared I'd damaged the seal. Clean best you can and use a go=
od
>> flux.
>>
>> https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-iron
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 3/15/2024 8:05 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Congratulations on finding the leak. I would not have much confidence in
>> any epoxy. The area would need to be impeccably clean including inside t=
he
>> actual crack & the block gets very hot. I wonder if it might be a candid=
ate
>> for an expert MIG/TIG welder?
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>> On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 11:00:46 PM CDT, Wayne Schultz via Healey=
s
>> <healeys@autox.team.net> <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Yes, it was!
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 10:16=E2=80=AFPM Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net=
> wrote:
>>
>> Wayne - you are a star !
>> I got lucky and think that I have found it.
>> Started by removing the center tappet side cover.
>> Just like your experience - mine is below the center cover mounting boss=
;
>> there is a ridge there just above the distributor drive.
>> Was this where the one you worked on was ?
>> Actually looks someone tried to repair it before. Have no idea what they
>> used, but is a soft white putty like substance and the oozing got worse
>> when I removed it. Had the coolant under pressure.
>> So now have to clean up and think about a repair technique.
>> Thank you for responding .
>> rg
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
>> From: *Roger Grace* <roggrace@telus.net>
>> Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15=E2=80=AFAM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
>> To: Wayne Schultz <waschu2@gmail.com>
>> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>
>>
>> Wayne,
>> Thank you. That sounds very similar to my situation. Not quite sure that
>> I understand what you mean by the boss that goes down to the sump ? Is t=
his
>> the oil return path - interesting. Yes, my plan is to get the pan off an=
d
>> pressurize the coolant with some dye in it and hopefully locate it.
>> So your repair was done with the tappet side covers off ? Maybe that is =
a
>> block weakness and I get lucky with a similar fault.
>> rg
>>
>>
>> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink=
&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Dwebmail>
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&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Dwebmail>
>>
>> On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 9:14=E2=80=AFPM Wayne Schultz <waschu2@gmail.com=
> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Roger,
>> My friend who had a  Healey 3000 had  a similar issue. We would
>> find coolant in the oil on the dipstick and filler cap. I found when we
>> pressurized the cooling system with the engine warm, no leak noted, with
>> the engine cold a slight coolant leak in pressure. I decided to drop the
>> oil pan to look for leaks and found a very slight leak internally drippi=
ng
>> into the oil pan area. We found that the leak was from the boss in betwe=
en
>> the 6 and 7 tappets.  With that  tappet cover off we could see coolant
>> drips forming in that boss running down into the pan area. It would only
>> leak when cold. Porosity? I think so. I decided to Peen  the boss with a
>> punch and seal with JB Weld. It has been good ever since. I suggest
>> dropping your oil pan to look for leaks might be the least invasive firs=
t
>> step in locating your problem.    Good luck.
>>
>>                Wayne
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
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>

--0000000000005a89040613d24e61
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Thank you and I do like the look of that lo temp silv=
er solder for other applications and maybe if I haven&#39;t fixed it.</div>=
<div>There is no definitive crack as such. It is block cast iron porosity. =
It oozes very slowly from an area of about 1.5 x 1 in.</div><div>Access is =
limited too. Just hoping that there are no other porous areas.<br></div><di=
v>A proper fix to my mind would be engine out; block stripped and vacuum re=
sin impregnation - probably not going to happen for now<br></div><div>What =
intrigues me is that this is in exactly the same location as Wayne&#39;s fr=
iend had. <br></div><div>So it surely is a weakness of this block ?<br></di=
v><div>Wonder how many others there are out there - some maybe unknown too =
?<br></div><div>I only picked it up by noting the creamy damp gunge in the =
inside of the valve cover. <br></div><div>Remember too that less than a tea=
spoon of glycol in the oil triggers the oil analysis alarm.</div><div>rg<br=
></div><div>rg<br></div><div><br></div></div><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-=
A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br><table style=3D"border-top:1px solid #d3d4de"><tr><t=
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/td><td style=3D"width:470px;padding-top:12px;color:#41424e;font-size:13px;=
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<div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Ma=
r 16, 2024 at 7:54=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:michaels=
alter@gmail.com">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquot=
e class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px s=
olid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmai=
l_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">I am defi=
nitely not an expert however I have successfully repaired some irreplaceabl=
e cast Iron water pump impellers using this product.</div><div class=3D"gma=
il_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small"><a href=
=3D"https://www.silfos.com/EN/Products/EASY-FLO-45.htm"; target=3D"_blank">h=
ttps://www.silfos.com/EN/Products/EASY-FLO-45.htm</a></div><div class=3D"gm=
ail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">I opted=
 to use this because a very much lower temperature is required.</div><div c=
lass=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:smal=
l"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-s=
erif;font-size:small">M<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div =
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 10:12=E2=80=AFAM B=
ob Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; target=3D"_blank">bs=
pidell@comcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote=
" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);=
padding-left:1ex"><u></u>

 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    MIG/TIG isn&#39;t usually effective on cast iron. Brazing might be your
    best bet, and plenty strong. I brazed a mis-sized plug on a
    so-called &#39;uprated&#39; water pump for my BN2 that wouldn&#39;t oth=
erwise
    seal up and the result was good, but I feared I&#39;d damaged the seal.
    Clean best you can and use a good flux.<br>
    <br>
    <a href=3D"https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-iron"=
 target=3D"_blank">https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-i=
ron</a><br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div>On 3/15/2024 8:05 AM, warthodson--- via
      Healeys wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div style=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS,sans-serif;font-size:16px">
        <div dir=3D"ltr">Congratulations on finding
          the leak. I would not have much confidence in any epoxy. The
          area would need to be impeccably clean including inside the
          actual crack &amp; the block gets very hot. I wonder if it
          might be a candidate for an expert MIG/TIG welder?</div>
        <div dir=3D"ltr">Gary Hodson=C2=A0</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
      </div>
      <div id=3D"m_-1750315590383346962m_8760898680477669716ydpbb1b946fyaho=
o_quoted_1378980925">
        <div style=3D"font-family:&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,Helvetica,Aria=
l,sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:rgb(38,40,42)">
          <div> On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 11:00:46 PM CDT, Wayne
            Schultz via Healeys <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; t=
arget=3D"_blank">&lt;healeys@autox.team.net&gt;</a> wrote: </div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>
            <div id=3D"m_-1750315590383346962m_8760898680477669716ydpbb1b94=
6fyiv3499248027">
              <div>
                <div dir=3D"ltr">Yes, it was!=C2=A0<br clear=3D"none">
                </div>
                <br clear=3D"none">
                <div id=3D"m_-1750315590383346962m_8760898680477669716ydpbb=
1b946fyiv3499248027yqt57983">
                  <div>
                    <div dir=3D"ltr">On Thu,
                      Mar 14, 2024 at 10:16=E2=80=AFPM Roger Grace &lt;<a s=
hape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:roggrace@telus.net"; rel=3D"noreferrer noopener=
" target=3D"_blank">roggrace@telus.net</a>&gt;
                      wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
                    </div>
                    <blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-le=
ft:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
                      <div dir=3D"ltr">
                        <div>Wayne - you are a star !</div>
                        <div>I got lucky and think that I have found it.</d=
iv>
                        <div>Started by removing the center tappet side
                          cover.</div>
                        <div>Just like your experience - mine is below
                          the center cover mounting boss; there is a
                          ridge there just above the distributor drive.</di=
v>
                        <div>Was this where the one you worked on was ?<br =
clear=3D"none">
                        </div>
                        <div>Actually looks someone tried to repair it
                          before. Have no idea what they used, but is a
                          soft white putty like substance and the oozing
                          got worse when I removed it. Had the coolant
                          under pressure.</div>
                        <div>So now have to clean up and think about a
                          repair technique.</div>
                        <div>Thank you for responding .</div>
                        <div>rg<br clear=3D"none">
                        </div>
                        <div><br clear=3D"none">
                        </div>
                        <div><br clear=3D"none">
                        </div>
                        <div><br clear=3D"none">
                          <div>
                            <div dir=3D"ltr">----------
                              Forwarded message ---------<br clear=3D"none"=
>
                              From: <b>Roger Grace</b> <span>&lt;<a shape=
=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:roggrace@telus.net"; rel=3D"noreferrer noopener" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">roggrace@telus.net</a>&gt;</span><br clear=3D"none">
                              Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15=E2=80=AFAM<br=
 clear=3D"none">
                              Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil<br clear=
=3D"none">
                              To: Wayne Schultz &lt;<a shape=3D"rect" href=
=3D"mailto:waschu2@gmail.com"; rel=3D"noreferrer noopener" target=3D"_blank"=
>waschu2@gmail.com</a>&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
                              Cc: &lt;<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:heal=
eys@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener" target=3D"_blank">healeys@a=
utox.team.net</a>&gt;<br clear=3D"none">
                            </div>
                            <br clear=3D"none">
                            <br clear=3D"none">
                            <div dir=3D"ltr">
                              <div>Wayne,</div>
                              <div>Thank you. That sounds very similar
                                to my situation. Not quite sure that I
                                understand what you mean by the boss
                                that goes down to the sump ? Is this the
                                oil return path - interesting. Yes, my
                                plan is to get the pan off and
                                pressurize the coolant with some dye in
                                it and hopefully locate it.=C2=A0</div>
                              <div>So your repair was done with the
                                tappet side covers off ? Maybe that is a
                                block weakness and I get lucky with a
                                similar fault.</div>
                              <div>rg<br clear=3D"none">
                              </div>
                            </div>
                            <div id=3D"m_-1750315590383346962m_876089868047=
7669716ydpbb1b946fyiv3499248027m_1672260542168041566m_-2987158626209960444D=
AB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br clear=3D"none">
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                            <div>
                              <div dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at
                                9:14=E2=80=AFPM Wayne Schultz &lt;<a shape=
=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:waschu2@gmail.com"; rel=3D"noreferrer noopener" tar=
get=3D"_blank">waschu2@gmail.com</a>&gt;
                                wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
                              </div>
                              <blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
                                <div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Roger,
                                  <div>My friend who had=C2=A0a=C2=A0 Heale=
y 3000
                                    had=C2=A0 a similar issue. We would
                                    find=C2=A0coolant=C2=A0in the oil on th=
e
                                    dipstick and filler cap. I found
                                    when we pressurized the cooling
                                    system with the engine warm, no leak
                                    noted, with the engine cold a slight
                                    coolant leak in pressure. I decided
                                    to drop the oil pan to look for
                                    leaks and found a very slight leak
                                    internally dripping into the oil pan
                                    area. We found that the leak was
                                    from the boss in between the 6 and 7
                                    tappets.=C2=A0 With that=C2=A0 tappet c=
over
                                    off we could see coolant drips
                                    forming in that boss running down
                                    into the pan area. It would only
                                    leak when cold. Porosity? I think
                                    so. I decided to Peen=C2=A0 the boss wi=
th
                                    a punch and seal with JB Weld. It
                                    has been good ever since. I suggest
                                    dropping=C2=A0your oil pan to look for
                                    leaks might be the least invasive
                                    first step in locating your
                                    problem.=C2=A0 =C2=A0 Good luck.=C2=A0<=
/div>
                                  <div><br clear=3D"none">
                                  </div>
                                  <div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Wayne</div>
                                </div>
                                <br>
                              </blockquote>
                            </div>
                          </div>
                        </div>
                      </div>
                    </blockquote>
                  </div>
                </div>
              </div>
            </div>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
  </div>

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r" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
<br>
s/roggrace@telus.net" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.tea=
m.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace@telus.net</a><br>
<br>
</blockquote></div>

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