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I am definitely not an expert however I have successfully repaired some
irreplaceable cast Iron water pump impellers using this product.
https://www.silfos.com/EN/Products/EASY-FLO-45.htm
I opted to use this because a very much lower temperature is required.
M
On Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 10:12=E2=80=AFAM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>=
wrote:
> MIG/TIG isn't usually effective on cast iron. Brazing might be your best
> bet, and plenty strong. I brazed a mis-sized plug on a so-called 'uprated=
'
> water pump for my BN2 that wouldn't otherwise seal up and the result was
> good, but I feared I'd damaged the seal. Clean best you can and use a goo=
d
> flux.
>
> https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-iron
>
>
>
>
> On 3/15/2024 8:05 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Congratulations on finding the leak. I would not have much confidence in
> any epoxy. The area would need to be impeccably clean including inside th=
e
> actual crack & the block gets very hot. I wonder if it might be a candida=
te
> for an expert MIG/TIG welder?
> Gary Hodson
>
> On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 11:00:46 PM CDT, Wayne Schultz via Healeys
> <healeys@autox.team.net> <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Yes, it was!
>
> On Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 10:16=E2=80=AFPM Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net>=
wrote:
>
> Wayne - you are a star !
> I got lucky and think that I have found it.
> Started by removing the center tappet side cover.
> Just like your experience - mine is below the center cover mounting boss;
> there is a ridge there just above the distributor drive.
> Was this where the one you worked on was ?
> Actually looks someone tried to repair it before. Have no idea what they
> used, but is a soft white putty like substance and the oozing got worse
> when I removed it. Had the coolant under pressure.
> So now have to clean up and think about a repair technique.
> Thank you for responding .
> rg
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ---------
> From: *Roger Grace* <roggrace@telus.net>
> Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15=E2=80=AFAM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil
> To: Wayne Schultz <waschu2@gmail.com>
> Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>
>
>
> Wayne,
> Thank you. That sounds very similar to my situation. Not quite sure that =
I
> understand what you mean by the boss that goes down to the sump ? Is this
> the oil return path - interesting. Yes, my plan is to get the pan off and
> pressurize the coolant with some dye in it and hopefully locate it.
> So your repair was done with the tappet side covers off ? Maybe that is a
> block weakness and I get lucky with a similar fault.
> rg
>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_source=3Dlink&=
utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Dwebmail>
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utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Dwebmail>
>
> On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at 9:14=E2=80=AFPM Wayne Schultz <waschu2@gmail.com>=
wrote:
>
> Hi Roger,
> My friend who had a Healey 3000 had a similar issue. We would
> find coolant in the oil on the dipstick and filler cap. I found when we
> pressurized the cooling system with the engine warm, no leak noted, with
> the engine cold a slight coolant leak in pressure. I decided to drop the
> oil pan to look for leaks and found a very slight leak internally drippin=
g
> into the oil pan area. We found that the leak was from the boss in betwee=
n
> the 6 and 7 tappets. With that tappet cover off we could see coolant
> drips forming in that boss running down into the pan area. It would only
> leak when cold. Porosity? I think so. I decided to Peen the boss with a
> punch and seal with JB Weld. It has been good ever since. I suggest
> dropping your oil pan to look for leaks might be the least invasive first
> step in locating your problem. Good luck.
>
> Wayne
>
> _______________________________________________
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sa=
ns-serif;font-size:small">I am definitely not an expert however I have succ=
essfully repaired some irreplaceable cast Iron water pump impellers using t=
his product.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,s=
ans-serif;font-size:small"><a href=3D"https://www.silfos.com/EN/Products/EA=
SY-FLO-45.htm">https://www.silfos.com/EN/Products/EASY-FLO-45.htm</a></div>=
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-siz=
e:small">I opted to use this because a very much lower temperature is requi=
red.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-seri=
f;font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-fam=
ily:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gm=
ail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Mar 16, 2024 at 10=
:12=E2=80=AFAM Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspi=
dell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" =
style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);pa=
dding-left:1ex"><u></u>
=20
=20
=20
<div>
MIG/TIG isn't usually effective on cast iron. Brazing might be your
best bet, and plenty strong. I brazed a mis-sized plug on a
so-called 'uprated' water pump for my BN2 that wouldn't oth=
erwise
seal up and the result was good, but I feared I'd damaged the seal.
Clean best you can and use a good flux.<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-iron"=
target=3D"_blank">https://www.reliance-foundry.com/blog/how-to-weld-cast-i=
ron</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 3/15/2024 8:05 AM, warthodson--- via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
<div style=3D"font-family:Comic Sans MS,sans-serif;font-size:16px">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Congratulations on finding
the leak. I would not have much confidence in any epoxy. The
area would need to be impeccably clean including inside the
actual crack & the block gets very hot. I wonder if it
might be a candidate for an expert MIG/TIG welder?</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Gary Hodson=C2=A0</div>
<div><br>
</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"m_8760898680477669716ydpbb1b946fyahoo_quoted_1378980925">
<div style=3D"font-family:"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,Aria=
l,sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:rgb(38,40,42)">
<div> On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 11:00:46 PM CDT, Wayne
Schultz via Healeys <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; t=
arget=3D"_blank"><healeys@autox.team.net></a> wrote: </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"m_8760898680477669716ydpbb1b946fyiv3499248027">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Yes, it was!=C2=A0<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div id=3D"m_8760898680477669716ydpbb1b946fyiv3499248027yqt=
57983">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Thu,
Mar 14, 2024 at 10:16=E2=80=AFPM Roger Grace <<a s=
hape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:roggrace@telus.net"; rel=3D"noreferrer noopener=
" target=3D"_blank">roggrace@telus.net</a>>
wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-le=
ft:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>Wayne - you are a star !</div>
<div>I got lucky and think that I have found it.</d=
iv>
<div>Started by removing the center tappet side
cover.</div>
<div>Just like your experience - mine is below
the center cover mounting boss; there is a
ridge there just above the distributor drive.</di=
v>
<div>Was this where the one you worked on was ?<br =
clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>Actually looks someone tried to repair it
before. Have no idea what they used, but is a
soft white putty like substance and the oozing
got worse when I removed it. Had the coolant
under pressure.</div>
<div>So now have to clean up and think about a
repair technique.</div>
<div>Thank you for responding .</div>
<div>rg<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">----------
Forwarded message ---------<br clear=3D"none"=
>
From: <b>Roger Grace</b> <span><<a shape=
=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:roggrace@telus.net"; rel=3D"noreferrer noopener" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">roggrace@telus.net</a>></span><br clear=3D"none">
Date: Thu, Mar 14, 2024 at 8:15=E2=80=AFAM<br=
clear=3D"none">
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Glycol in oil<br clear=
=3D"none">
To: Wayne Schultz <<a shape=3D"rect" href=
=3D"mailto:waschu2@gmail.com"; rel=3D"noreferrer noopener" target=3D"_blank"=
>waschu2@gmail.com</a>><br clear=3D"none">
Cc: <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:heal=
eys@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener" target=3D"_blank">healeys@a=
utox.team.net</a>><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>Wayne,</div>
<div>Thank you. That sounds very similar
to my situation. Not quite sure that I
understand what you mean by the boss
that goes down to the sump ? Is this the
oil return path - interesting. Yes, my
plan is to get the pan off and
pressurize the coolant with some dye in
it and hopefully locate it.=C2=A0</div>
<div>So your repair was done with the
tappet side covers off ? Maybe that is a
block weakness and I get lucky with a
similar fault.</div>
<div>rg<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"m_8760898680477669716ydpbb1b946fyiv3=
499248027m_1672260542168041566m_-2987158626209960444DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8=
-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br clear=3D"none">
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212,222)">
<tbody>
<tr>
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<td colspan=3D"1" rowspan=3D"1" style=
=3D"width:470px;padding-top:12px;color:rgb(65,66,78);font-size:13px;font-fa=
mily:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;line-height:18px">Virus-free.<a shape=3D"re=
ct" href=3D"http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=3Demail&utm_s=
ource=3Dlink&utm_campaign=3Dsig-email&utm_content=3Dwebmail" style=
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.avg.com</a></td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, Mar 10, 2024 at
9:14=E2=80=AFPM Wayne Schultz <<a shape=
=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:waschu2@gmail.com"; rel=3D"noreferrer noopener" tar=
get=3D"_blank">waschu2@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Roger,
<div>My friend who had=C2=A0a=C2=A0 Heale=
y 3000
had=C2=A0 a similar issue. We would
find=C2=A0coolant=C2=A0in the oil on th=
e
dipstick and filler cap. I found
when we pressurized the cooling
system with the engine warm, no leak
noted, with the engine cold a slight
coolant leak in pressure. I decided
to drop the oil pan to look for
leaks and found a very slight leak
internally dripping into the oil pan
area. We found that the leak was
from the boss in between the 6 and 7
tappets.=C2=A0 With that=C2=A0 tappet c=
over
off we could see coolant drips
forming in that boss running down
into the pan area. It would only
leak when cold. Porosity? I think
so. I decided to Peen=C2=A0 the boss wi=
th
a punch and seal with JB Weld. It
has been good ever since. I suggest
dropping=C2=A0your oil pan to look for
leaks might be the least invasive
first step in locating your
problem.=C2=A0 =C2=A0 Good luck.=C2=A0<=
/div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Wayne</div>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
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