>>tapered pin, which holds the clutch release arm ... broken
>But do not install the hardened pin. It will break again
>... The best method is to weld the arm to the spindle
I have driven only TR6's for 10 years, all have this new hardened
pin from TRF and I have had not a single failure. This is 200k miles
in a modern timeframe and at modern speeds.
I do two things:
1. verify all pieces of this cross-shaft assembly, pushrod and TOB
are in perfect condition, or I replace the pieces. Please check
the snout in the trans that the TOB rides on and verify no oil
is leaking (easy to just replace these seals now).
2. I use the new hardened pin from TRF and do not over tighten it,
just snug it up good with the small wrench and tie it. I suspect
most problems are due to overtightening. Verify the fit into the
cross shaft, it should be smooth with no movement.
Old pins can be best drilled out from the other side with a 3/32" bit
at a slight angle into the tip area and tapped out. You can remove
the trans internals and drill from the top via a long bit, but this
is alot more work.
I always use new cross-shaft bushings from TRF (wider than stock or
other vendors) and tap in from the outside, leaving the old ones in
there to even the load if they look okay.
I really like that new TOB from some 80's model of the Land Cruiser
and now use it for all installations usually with a new sleeve and pin.
Sitting the TOB on a light bulb for 20 minutes after the sleeve has
spent the night in the freezer works well. TRF makes a special tool,
but with the above its not really needed, besides this TOB isn't fragile.
Roger
--
Roger G. Bolick, rgb@exact.com 512-794-9567, FAX 512-345-2879
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