Jeff,
Not exactly, what you can't do is get the cannister itself out of the area
w/o removing the fuel pump. You can however turn it upside down so that the
filter falls out. It does fit between the clutch slave and the frame and
can be dropped through into a pan. As I said I don't know why I wated to
put in a spinn on.
Dean
----------
> From: jbonina@nectech.com
> To:
> Cc: blang@MIT.EDU; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re[2]: Oil cannister leak
> Date: Thursday, April 09, 1998 7:29 AM
>
>
> Bob, do you mean to tell me that you cannot change the oil filter
> itself unless the fuel pump is removed? (I'm talking about the stock
> set-up here)?
>
> Jeff
>
>
> Subject: Re: Oil cannister leak
> Author: Bob Lang <LANG@ISIS.MIT.EDU> at SMTP
> Date: 4/9/98 9:45 AM
>
>
> On Thu, 9 Apr 1998 jbonina@nectech.com wrote:
>
> > I've developed a leak that would make the Exxon Valdeze (sp.?)
look
> > like nothin'
>
> To quote Ken Streeter: "It's not a leak, it's POURING OUT!"
>
> > While my car was up in the air having the tie rods replaced I
asked
> > Dumbo (the ex-mechanic) to see if he could locate the leak. He
said it
> > was coming from the oil filter canister. He couldn't tell if the
> > canister was 'warped' or exactly why it was leaking.
>
> This is precisely why most oil filters are spin on now. Think of all the
> cars in the past that were perfectly fine until that fatal oil change and
> the unsuspecting owner of the car destroyed the engines' innards as the
> "life blood" poured, no shot, out of the car (it goes out all too fast
> when the engine is running...)
>
> > Now, given the source of the information (Dumbo), and also the
fact
> > that 'twas HE who changed the oil when I initially purchased the
car I
> > think there a 2 distinct possibilities and 1 remote possibility.
>
> I have news for you. Even when my Dad's first Triumph was new, we had
> this problem about every third or fourth oil change. Give your mechanic a
> break... go somewhere else for your oil changes.
>
> > 1) The canister was over tightened and the rubber seal is damaged
or
> > twisted.
>
> Could be.
>
> > 2) Like everything else he did, he probably didn't torque the nut
> > correctly (too loose).
>
>
>
> Could be.
>
> > 3) the remotely correct answer, something IS wrong with the
canister.
>
> Probably not. Unless he used a very large hammer to "adjust" it. The can
> is pretty hefty.
>
> > Has anyone ever experienced a "bad" oil filter canister?
>
> No, but I've seen plenty of TR6 oil shooting out on the road after
> so-called "qualified" mechanics had changed the oil.
>
> I'll be the problem is either:
>
> 1. the guy didn't get the old gasket out (or didn't bother).
>
> 2. the guy didn't grease the new gasket so that it bunched up in the
> little slot that it is supposed to sit in.
>
> There's a third possibility - that the surfaces where the filter can
> meets the gasket was not clean.
>
> The problem here is that LHD cars exported to the US have the steering
> column strategically placed right in the way of changing the oil filter.
> In fact, it is impossible (at least in my experience) to remove the oil
> cannister without removing the fuel pump... and removing the fuel pump is
> exactly how our Triumph mechanics used to accomodate this little quirk.
> In fact, on at least 5 or more occasions our TR6 would stop running on a
> very busy street here in the Boston area about a quarter-mile from the
> dealer after we had had an oil change. Every time, it was because the
> mechanic had negelcted to reinstall the fuel pump after the oil change.
>
> So, I have two suggestions:
>
> 1. go to an electric fuel pump and remove the mechanical one. Cost: $35
> and a couple of hours to install it. More money if you want an inertial
> shutoff (recommended but not required) and filters...
>
> 2. convert to a spin-on filter. This is a little more pricey at around
> $50, but then any idiot can change the oil because it looks familiar to
> them. With the spin on, you can put the filter hanging down and change it
> from beneath the car. I'll point out that there is debate on the Triumph
> list as to the best location and what filter to use. My pre-emptive
> suggestion is: hang it down about 5 degrees off of verticle, this
> accomodates the clearance to the clutch slave cylinder, and use the FRAM
> PH3600 or equiv. I used the NAPA "Gold" 1516 (I think) as it is a direct
> replacement for the FRAM. A drain back valve is a good idea and not all
> of the 3600 equivs have that valve.
>
> I have used both approches. Currently, I am using "1" because my spin-on
> filter adapter (one of the first that TRF sold, I might add) seems to
> have become "pourous" and it leaks from an undetermined place. I gave up
> trying to track the leak down and went back to the spin on filter the
> last time I had pull the engine... it does not leak one drop now. Ask
> Andy Mace (Hi Andy) - I used 1 quart in over 5000 miles back and forth to
> VTR last summer.
>
> All the stains in the garage are from my older VW Golf and when I had the
> spin-on on.
>
> > Thanks dudes,
> >
> > Jeff
>
> L8r,
> rml
>
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