Michael Hargreave Mawson wrote:
> In article <3C671743.AB3CC81@sympatico.ca>, Livia I. Haasper
> <wilivhaasper@sympatico.ca> writes
> >Michael Hargreave Mawson wrote:
>
> >
> >Bonnet:
> >To fabricate and replace the leading edge of the bonnet is more
> >difficult then a
> >replacement panel on the door skin, but it can be done, and it should
> >be cheaper
> >than replacing the whole thing.You might need help with that, it's not easy.
>
> Is there any reason why I couldn't or shouldn't clear away all the rusty
> metal, treat the bare metal with rust-proofer, fold and shape a piece of
> sheet aluminium, rivet this in place inside the bonnet (rivets attaching
> the aluminium sheet to the horizontal section on the bonnet that is all
> but invisible), fill the resulting craters with filler, and then prime
> and paint? (At this point, I should probably admit that my battery
> tray has been repaired like this, and seems to be holding up nicely.)
We just read Bill Davies's comments, and we totally agree on his opinion on the
use
of an aluminum and steel combination in body work. If these two metals are to be
used together, they have to be insulated from each other to avoid the corrosion
effect.
For example, a bolt and nut should be installed with a plastic washers and a
plastic bushing.
In the repair of your bonnet, this procedure is not possible. If you go ahead
and
rivet aluminum sheeting to the inside, you should cover the repair with a fiber
glass product to insure a better bonding. After that, use filler to smoothen out
the area.
We don't recommend a repair like that. It may last a few years without
corroding,
but it's not a long term solution, it will eventually give you problems.
Yes, you would have to clear away the rusty metal and treat it with rust proof
primer.
Better solution: ship the car over here, we'll do it for you.
Cheers,
Wilf and Liv
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