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The wheel cylinders didn't have 'County' embossed (I always check for
that). I found new fittings from a 'classic car' supplier; as used in
our Healeys they're not common now (ours have an un-threaded part aout
1/8" at the end). They screwed in easily.
On 4/25/2021 10:46 AM, gradea1@charter.net wrote:
> Ouh Oh, you might be on to something there. The early lines were AF
> thread, later Girling, which could explain the difficulty in
> fitting.(Taiwan might be metric) Don't use teflon tape, it melts with
> brake fluid. Use the red grease supplied with NOS kits or get some
> from Delco. Anti seize as you applied it is ok, but that will only
> assist in removing and could contaminate the fluid, even if carefully
> applied as you did. Use that on wheel splines.
>
> You could be getting air at the threads of those new cylinders-hard to
> see, but if you get any fluid on your finger its a sure bet. There
> must be an opening to the atmosphere somewhere as all suggest.
> Damn reproduction parts, and even though old and suspect, I like NOS
> Girling if you can find any. Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Bob Spidell"
> To: gradea1@charter.net
> Cc: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Healeys"
> Sent: Sunday April 25 2021 10:23:36AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem
>
> Hank,
>
> Good point. I'm on record being very 'anti-County,' having had hugely
> disruptive failures with their water pumps. The two rears are
> 'no-name' so possibly County, and the one front cyl I put in is Moss
> 'Classic Gold,' so possibly County (IIRC, it said 'Taiwan' on the
> box). The other three fronts are, AFAIK, original Girling with, yes,
> probably seal kits from Moss (we redid the brakes during restoration,
> and IIRC my dad did most of the work*). I'm loathing having to pull a
> front drum and re-pack, shim etc. again but will do so if no other
> solution works (I've already checked the rears for leaks). I did use a
> 'no-name' rear cyl on my BJ8, but so far it's given me no issues (that
> I know of).
>
> *Side note: When I went to install one of the new rear cylinders the
> fitting would not go in easily, even though I was extremely careful
> not to cross-thread. Thinking I got a cyl with a bunged thread I
> ordered another, and had the same problem! I finally realized that
> when my dad rebuilt the brake system he used new steel lines, but
> likely re-used the (steel) fittings (correct fittings are available,
> but not common). On close inspection, the threads of the fitting were
> rust-colored, and even when tested on the bench did not want to screw
> in as easily as they should have. Even a thin coat of rust presents
> high resistance to torquing so I've taken to putting a VERY thin
> application of high-temp anti-seize on the threads ONLY (I can hear
> the howls of 'heresy!' and "you're gonna die!" already ;). I use less
> than a BB in size of anti-seize and put it nowhere near the sealing
> surface, so contamination of the fluid, seal failures, etc. is
> unlikely (I know of some owners who use teflon tape, but I could see
> that conceivably posing a problem). Not only should this prevent
> rust-galling of steel-steel threads, it should make the fittings much
> easier to remove, so rounding out the nut is less likely. Seizing due
> to rust shouldn't be an issue with cupro-nickel lines and brass
> fittings. As usual, the interwebs are in violent disagreement on the
> subject (examples):
>
> https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/
> <https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/>
>
> https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/
> <https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/>
>
> Bob
>
> On 4/25/2021 9:49 AM, gradea1@charter.net wrote:
>
> Bob-one troublesome word you mentioned in relation to the wheel
> cylinders is "new." These must be the County Brand...spelled
> China. If you did get lucky, and they are good cylinders, what
> about the other three for the front? Rebuilt with Moss kits? I
> have seen the problem with the seals being incorrect for the bore.
> For instance, on a Sprite master, one push of the pedal stuck the
> seal in the rear of the casing and never again to function.
> Replacement parts today are to be suspect in an obscure issue like
> you are having. Sad Healey tales..Hank
>
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The wheel cylinders didn't have 'County' embossed (I always check
for that). I found new fittings from a 'classic car' supplier; as
used in our Healeys they're not common now (ours have an un-threaded
part aout 1/8" at the end). They screwed in easily.<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/25/2021 10:46 AM,
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:gradea1@charter.net";>gradea1@charter.net</a> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:86140d0b3c5d4d5e05fd581a95f4b1c85c1ab333@webmail">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
Ouh Oh, you might be on to something there. The early lines were
AF thread, later Girling, which could explain the difficulty in
fitting.(Taiwan might be metric) Don't use teflon tape, it melts
with brake fluid. Use the red grease supplied with NOS kits or
get some from Delco. Anti seize as you applied it is ok, but that
will only assist in removing and could contaminate the fluid, even
if carefully applied as you did. Use that on wheel splines.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>You could be getting air at the threads of those new
cylinders-hard to see, but if you get any fluid on your finger
its a sure bet. There must be an opening to the atmosphere
somewhere as all suggest.</div>
<div>Damn reproduction parts, and even though old and suspect, I
like NOS Girling if you can find any. Hank<br>
<br>
<p>-----------------------------------------</p>
From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:gradea1@charter.net";>gradea1@charter.net</a><br>
Cc: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Healeys"<br>
Sent: Sunday April 25 2021 10:23:36AM<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem<br>
<br>
Hank,<br>
<br>
Good point. I'm on record being very 'anti-County,' having had
hugely disruptive failures with their water pumps. The two
rears
are 'no-name' so possibly County, and the one front cyl I put
in is Moss 'Classic Gold,' so possibly County (IIRC, it said
'Taiwan' on the box). The other three fronts are, AFAIK,
original
Girling with, yes, probably seal kits from Moss (we redid the
brakes during restoration, and IIRC my dad did most of the
work*).
I'm loathing having to pull a front drum and re-pack, shim
etc.
again but will do so if no other solution works (I've already
checked the rears for leaks). I did use a 'no-name' rear cyl
on my
BJ8, but so far it's given me no issues (that I know of).<br>
<br>
*Side note: When I went to install one of the new rear
cylinders
the fitting would not go in easily, even though I was
extremely
careful not to cross-thread. Thinking I got a cyl with a
bunged
thread I ordered another, and had the same problem! I finally
realized that when my dad rebuilt the brake system he used new
steel lines, but likely re-used the (steel) fittings (correct
fittings are available, but not common). On close inspection,
the
threads of the fitting were rust-colored, and even when tested
on
the bench did not want to screw in as easily as they should
have.
Even a thin coat of rust presents high resistance to torquing
so
I've taken to putting a VERY thin application of high-temp
anti-seize on the threads ONLY (I can hear the howls of
'heresy!'
and "you're gonna die!" already ;). I use less than a BB in
size of anti-seize and put it nowhere near the sealing
surface, so
contamination of the fluid, seal failures, etc. is unlikely (I
know
of some owners who use teflon tape, but I could see that
conceivably posing a problem). Not only should this prevent
rust-galling of steel-steel threads, it should make the
fittings
much easier to remove, so rounding out the nut is less likely.
Seizing due to rust shouldn't be an issue with cupro-nickel
lines
and brass fittings. As usual, the interwebs are in violent
disagreement on the subject (examples):<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/";
moz-do-not-send="true">
</a><a
href="https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/";
moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/</a><br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/";
moz-do-not-send="true">
</a><a
href="https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/";
moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/</a><br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/25/2021 9:49 AM, <a
class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
moz-do-not-send="true">gradea1@charter.net</a>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote>
Bob-one troublesome word you mentioned in relation to the
wheel
cylinders is "new." These must be the County Brand...spelled
China.
If you did get lucky, and they are good cylinders, what
about the
other three for the front? Rebuilt with Moss kits? I have
seen the problem with the seals being incorrect for the
bore.Â
For instance, on a Sprite master, one push of the pedal
stuck the
seal in the rear of the casing and never again to function.Â
Replacement parts today are to be suspect in an obscure
issue like
you are having. Sad Healey tales..Hank<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</bspidell@comcast.net></div>
</blockquote>
<br>
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