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Bob / ListersFrom the Factory manual under Bleeding the Hydraulic System."N=
ote:=C2=A0 It is advisable to turn all the brake shoe adjusters to their fu=
ll "off" position before bleeding.=C2=A0 After bleeding adjust brakes as de=
scribed."Perry
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Apr 23, 2021 11:04 pm
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem
Listers,
I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the=20
wall. Here's what I've done:
- new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels
- one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2=20
front wheels)
- new master cylinder
I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled=20
as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple=20
times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of=20
time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight=20
pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be=20
the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and=20
bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's=20
finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and=20
old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm=20
not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit=20
with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after=20
some time.
Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed.
TIA,
Bob
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<div style="color:black;font: 10pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bob / Listers
<div>From the Factory manual under Bleeding the Hydraulic System.</div>
<div>"Note: It is advisable to turn all the brake shoe adjusters to their
full "off" position before bleeding. After bleeding adjust brakes as
described."</div>
<div>Perry</div>
<div><br>
<br>
<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font
size="2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Sent: Fri, Apr 23, 2021 11:04 pm<br>
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem<br>
<br>
<div dir="ltr">Listers,<br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me
up the <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">wall. Here's what I've done:<br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">- new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels<br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">- one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in
the 2 <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">front wheels)<br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">- new master cylinder<br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just
pressure bled <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and
a couple <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a
period of <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight
<br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could
only be <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing
it and <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of
Castrol's <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum
bleeding and <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all
methods. I'm <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump
up a bit <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor
after <br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">some time.<br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed.<br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">TIA,<br>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">Bob<br>
</div>
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