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Bob, more diagnosis is required. Use vice grips to GENTLY clamp off all 3
flex hoses.
If the pedal is not rock solid with the clamped off the problem is in the
master cylinder.
If it is have someone hold pressure on the pedal then release the clamps
one at a time to identify the offending brake(s).
M
On Fri., Apr. 23, 2021, 11:12 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <
healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the
> wall. Here's what I've done:
>
> - new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels
> - one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2
> front wheels)
> - new master cylinder
>
> I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled
> as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple
> times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of
> time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight
> pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be
> the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and
> bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's
> finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and
> old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm
> not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit
> with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after
> some time.
>
> Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed.
>
> TIA,
> Bob
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<div dir=3D"auto">Bob, more diagnosis is required. Use vice grips to GENTLY=
clamp off all 3 flex hoses.<div dir=3D"auto">If the pedal is not rock soli=
d with the clamped off the problem is in the master cylinder.=C2=A0</div><d=
iv dir=3D"auto">If it is have someone hold pressure on the pedal then relea=
se the clamps one at a time to identify the offending brake(s).</div><div d=
ir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div>=
</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">=
On Fri., Apr. 23, 2021, 11:12 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <<a href=3D"=
mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></d=
iv><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left=
:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Listers,<br>
<br>
I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the <=
br>
wall. Here's what I've done:<br>
<br>
- new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels<br>
- one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 <b=
r>
front wheels)<br>
- new master cylinder<br>
<br>
I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure ble=
d <br>
as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple <b=
r>
times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of <b=
r>
time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight <br>
pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be <br>
the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and <br>
bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol'=
s <br>
finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleedin=
g and <br>
old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. =
I'm <br>
not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit <br=
>
with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after <br>
some time.<br>
<br>
Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed.<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
Bob<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
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Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys"; rel=3D"noreferre=
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<br>
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er">Healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
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eys</a><br>
<br>
s/michaelsalter@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">=
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com</a><b=
r>
<br>
</blockquote></div>
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