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Bob-one troublesome word you mentioned in relation to the wheel=0Acylind=
ers is "new." These must be the County Brand...spelled China. If=0Ayou d=
id get lucky, and they are good cylinders, what about the other=0Athree=
for the front? Rebuilt with Moss kits? I have seen the problem=0Awith t=
he seals being incorrect for the bore. For instance, on a Sprite=0Amaste=
r, one push of the pedal stuck the seal in the rear of the casing=0Aand=
never again to function. Replacement parts today are to be suspect=0Ain=
an obscure issue like you are having. Sad Healey tales...Hank=0A=0A=09-=
----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell" =0ATo: "WILL=
IAM B LAWRENCE", "Healeys"=0ACc: =0ASent: Saturday April 24 2021 6:45:43=
PM=0ASubject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem=0A=0A (non) progress repor=
t:=0A=0A Thinking Bill probably had the explanation, I clamped off the R=
F flex=0Aline--the wheel I'd replaced the cylinder on--per Michael's sug=
gestion=0Aand, Voila!, a nice hard pedal. Thinking also that I hadn't ex=
pelled a=0Abubble, like Bill also suggested, I increased the pressure on=
my=0Apressure bleeding rig and bled all wheels again. Still, a nice har=
d=0Apedal, so I fired up my BJ8 to get it out of the garage so I could=
=0Apressure wash the undercarriage of the BN2 and take it (BJ8) for a=0A=
warm-up spin. Halfway around the 'block,' about 5 miles from home it=0As=
tarted running very rough so I pulled into a covid-closed restaurant=0Ap=
arking lot and popped the bonnet; coolant all over the passenger side=0A=
of the engine bay. It appears the gasket under the brass shut-off=0Avalv=
e for the heater hoses sprung a leak, so a call to AAA was in=0Aorder. A=
fter getting the BJ8 flat-bedded home I washed the 100's=0Aunderside, pu=
t on the new wheels and tires and hop in ... brake pedal=0Agoes to the f=
loor! Since I could get some brakes if I pumped the pedal=0Aa couple tim=
es I took a chance on a short, abridged spin around a=0Asmaller block--t=
he new wheels and tires ride fantastic, and no=0A'scuttle shake' detecte=
d--then parked it.=0A=0A Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. I meant=
to try the=0A'hold-the-pedal-to-the-floor-with-a-board' technique, but=
by EOD I was=0Aso beat I forgot. I've had trouble bleeding brakes on th=
e BJ8, but the=0ABN2 has generally cooperated until now. Damned if I can=
explain why I=0Acan get a good hard pedal, which proceeds to go soft fr=
om just=0Asitting. Good thing I love these cars.=0A=0A Bob=0A=0AOn 4/23/=
2021 9:06 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:=0A The problem with the double=
leading edge brakes on the 100s and=0A100-6s is that the bleeder screw=
is at a low point in the system so it=0Atakes a little extra effort exp=
el any entrained air. You probably got=0Aa pretty good slug when you cha=
nged the wheel cylinder. Probably keep=0Ableeding that wheel and use var=
ious techniques until you find the one=0Athat actually moves the air out=
of the bleeder. =0A Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 =0A----------------------=
---=0AFROM: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys =0ASENT: Satur=
day, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM=0ATO: Healeys =0ASUBJECT: [Healeys] BN2 Brak=
e Problem Listers,=0A=0A I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that=
is driving (heh) me up the=0A wall. Here's what I've done:=0A=0A - new=
shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels=0A - one new cylinder in one fr=
ont wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2=0A front wheels)=0A - new maste=
r cylinder=0A=0A I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I j=
ust pressure=0Abled=0A as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 f=
or decades and a=0Acouple=0A times for the BN2). At first, I got decent=
pedal then, after a period=0Aof=0A time I lost it; the pedal would go t=
o the floor with only slight=0A pressure (probably from the return sprin=
gs). Thinking it could only=0Abe=0A the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW bran=
d M/C but after installing it and=0A bleeding I got the same results. I'=
ve put 2 full quarts of Castrol's=0A finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the=
system and tried vacuum bleeding=0Aand=0A old-fashioned 'pump and hold'=
method; same result for all methods.=0AI'm=0A not losing fluid as far a=
s I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a=0Abit=0A with a half-dozen or=
so strokes, but will go back to the floor after=0A some time.=0A=0A Any=
and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed.=0A=0A TIA,=0A Bob=
=0A _______________________________________________=0A=0A
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<html><body>Bob-one troublesome word you mentioned in relation to the wh=
eel cylinders is "new." These must be the County Brand...spelled China.=
If you did get lucky, and they are good cylinders, what about the other=
three for the front? Rebuilt with Moss kits? I have seen the prob=
lem with the seals being incorrect for the bore. For instance, on=
a Sprite master, one push of the pedal stuck the seal in the rear of th=
e casing and never again to function. Replacement parts today are=
to be suspect in an obscure issue like you are having. Sad Healey tales=
..Hank<br><br><div class=3D"reply-new-signature"></div><p>-------------=
----------------------------</p>From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.ne=
t><br>To: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Healeys"<br>Cc: <br>Sent: Saturday Apri=
l 24 2021 6:45:43PM<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem<br><br>=
=0A(non) progress report:<br><br>=0AThinking Bill probably had the expla=
nation, I clamped off the RF=0Aflex line--the wheel I'd replaced the cyl=
inder on--per Michael's=0Asuggestion and, Voila!, a nice hard pedal. Thi=
nking also that I=0Ahadn't expelled a bubble, like Bill also suggested,=
I increased the=0Apressure on my pressure bleeding rig and bled all whe=
els again.=0AStill, a nice hard pedal, so I fired up my BJ8 to get it ou=
t of the=0Agarage so I could pressure wash the undercarriage of the BN2=
and=0Atake it (BJ8) for a warm-up spin. Halfway around the 'block,' abo=
ut=0A5 miles from home it started running very rough so I pulled into a=
=0Acovid-closed restaurant parking lot and popped the bonnet; coolant=0A=
all over the passenger side of the engine bay. It appears the=0Agasket u=
nder the brass shut-off valve for the heater hoses sprung a=0Aleak, so a=
call to AAA was in order. After getting the BJ8=0Aflat-bedded home I wa=
shed the 100's underside, put on the new=0Awheels and tires and hop in .=
. brake pedal goes to the floor!=0ASince I could get some brakes if I p=
umped the pedal a couple times=0AI took a chance on a short, abridged sp=
in around a smaller=0Ablock--the new wheels and tires ride fantastic, an=
d no 'scuttle=0Ashake' detected--then parked it.<br><br>=0AThanks for al=
l the suggestions, folks. I meant to try the=0A'hold-the-pedal-to-the-fl=
oor-with-a-board' technique, but by EOD I=0Awas so beat I forgot. I've h=
ad trouble bleeding brakes on the BJ8,=0Abut the BN2 has generally coope=
rated until now. Damned if I can=0Aexplain why I can get a good hard ped=
al, which proceeds to go soft=0Afrom just sitting. Good thing I love the=
se cars.<br><br>=0ABob<br><br><div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 4/23/202=
1 9:06 PM, WILLIAM B=0ALAWRENCE wrote:<br></div>=0A<blockquote>=0A<div s=
tyle=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:=
rgb(0,0,0);">=0AThe problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 1=
00s and=0A100-6s is that the bleeder screw is at a low point in the syst=
em so=0Ait takes a little extra effort expel any entrained air. You=0Apr=
obably got a pretty good slug when you changed the wheel=0Acylinder. Pro=
bably keep bleeding that wheel and use various=0Atechniques until you fi=
nd the one that actually moves the air out=0Aof the bleeder.</div>=0A<di=
v style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;col=
or:rgb(0,0,0);">=0A<br></div>=0A<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helve=
tica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:rgb(0,0,0);">=0ABill Lawrence</div=
>=0A<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:1=
2pt;color:rgb(0,0,0);">=0ABN1 #554</div>=0A<hr style=3D"width:98%;"><div=
dir=3D"ltr"><font style=3D"font-size:11pt;" face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif=
" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys=0A<a class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2=
396E"><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a>=0Aon behalf of Bob Spid=
ell via Healeys <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"><healeys@autox.tea=
m.net></a><br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM<br><b>To:=
</b> Healeys <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"><healeys@autox.team.n=
et></a><br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem</font>=0A<div>=
</div>=0A</div>=0A<div class=3D"BodyFragment">=0A<div class=3D"Pla=
inText"><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt;">Listers,<br><br=
>=0AI have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up=0A=
the<br>=0Awall. Here's what I've done:<br><br>=0A- new shoes and cylinde=
rs in both rear wheels<br>=0A- one new cylinder in one front wheel (ther=
e's a total of 4 in the=0A2<br>=0Afront wheels)<br>=0A- new master cylin=
der<br><br>=0AI hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just=
pressure=0Abled<br>=0Aas I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 f=
or decades and a=0Acouple<br>=0Atimes for the BN2). At first, I got dece=
nt pedal then, after a=0Aperiod of<br>=0Atime I lost it; the pedal would=
go to the floor with only=0Aslight<br>=0Apressure (probably from the re=
turn springs). Thinking it could only=0Abe<br>=0Athe M/C, I sprung for a=
new TRW brand M/C but after installing it=0Aand<br>=0Ableeding I got th=
e same results. I've put 2 full quarts of=0ACastrol's<br>=0Afinest 'synt=
hetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum=0Ableeding and<br>=0Aold=
-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods.=0AI'm<br=
>=0Anot losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a=
=0Abit<br>=0Awith a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the fl=
oor=0Aafter<br>=0Asome time.<br><br>=0AAny and all ideas and suggestions=
accepted and welcomed.<br><br>=0ATIA,<br>=0ABob<br>=0A_________________=
______________________________<br></span></font></div>=0A</div>=0A</bloc=
kquote>=0A<br></bspidell@comcast.net></body></html>
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