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The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and 100-6s is t=
hat the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system so it takes a little =
extra effort expel any entrained air. You probably got a pretty good slug w=
hen you changed the wheel cylinder. Probably keep bleeding that wheel and u=
se various techniques until you find the one that actually moves the air ou=
t of the bleeder.
Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell via=
Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM
To: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem
Listers,
I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the
wall. Here's what I've done:
- new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels
- one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2
front wheels)
- new master cylinder
I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled
as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple
times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of
time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight
pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be
the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and
bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's
finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and
old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm
not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit
with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after
some time.
Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed.
TIA,
Bob
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
sn.com
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The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and 100-6s is t=
hat the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system so it takes a little =
extra effort expel any entrained air. You probably got a pretty good slug w=
hen you changed the wheel cylinder.
Probably keep bleeding that wheel and use various techniques until you fin=
d the one that actually moves the air out of the bleeder.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
BN1 #554</div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-b=
ounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys@=
autox.team.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div class=3D"BodyFragment"><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt;=
">
<div class=3D"PlainText">Listers,<br>
<br>
I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the <br>
wall. Here's what I've done:<br>
<br>
- new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels<br>
- one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 <br>
front wheels)<br>
- new master cylinder<br>
<br>
I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled <b=
r>
as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple <b=
r>
times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of <b=
r>
time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight <br>
pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be <br>
the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and <br>
bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's <br>
finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and <b=
r>
old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm <br>
not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit <br=
>
with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after <br>
some time.<br>
<br>
Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed.<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
Bob<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
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