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Bill
There are two different ways that Girling and Lockheed adjust front brakes.
Lockheed has an adjuster between the wheel cylinder and the brake shoe.
Girling adjusts the brakes by letting the shoe be permanently in contact
with the wheel cylinder with a snail cam acting as a backstop that can move
the shoe and wheel cylinder piston closer to the drum. If the shoe is
adjusted with the cam it can leave air in the cylinder that will not bleed
out but will leave a soft pedal.
Try adjusting the snail cams to allow the shoes and pistons to be fully
down and then try bleeding.
On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 at 05:09, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <
healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
> The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and 100-6s is
> that the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system so it takes a little
> extra effort expel any entrained air. You probably got a pretty good slug
> when you changed the wheel cylinder. Probably keep bleeding that wheel and
> use various techniques until you find the one that actually moves the air
> out of the bleeder.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
> via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM
> *To:* Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem
>
> Listers,
>
> I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the
> wall. Here's what I've done:
>
> - new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels
> - one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2
> front wheels)
> - new master cylinder
>
> I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled
> as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple
> times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of
> time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight
> pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be
> the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and
> bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's
> finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and
> old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm
> not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit
> with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after
> some time.
>
> Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed.
>
> TIA,
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">Bill<div><br></div><div>There are two different ways that =
Girling and Lockheed adjust front brakes. Lockheed has an adjuster=C2=A0bet=
ween the wheel cylinder and the brake shoe.=C2=A0</div><div><br></div><div>=
Girling adjusts the brakes by letting the shoe be permanently in contact wi=
th the wheel cylinder with a snail cam acting as a backstop that can move t=
he shoe and wheel cylinder piston closer to the drum. If the shoe is adjust=
ed with the cam it can leave air in the cylinder that will not bleed out bu=
t will leave a soft pedal.</div><div><br></div><div>Try adjusting the snail=
cams to allow the shoes and pistons to be fully down and then try bleeding=
.</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail=
_attr">On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 at 05:09, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <<a =
href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote=
:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.=
8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and 100-6s is t=
hat the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system so it takes a little =
extra effort expel any entrained air. You probably got a pretty good slug w=
hen you changed the wheel cylinder.
Probably keep bleeding that wheel and use various techniques until you fin=
d the one that actually moves the air out of the bleeder.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color=
:rgb(0,0,0)">
BN1 #554</div>
<div id=3D"gmail-m_2847749364692357175appendonsend"></div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"gmail-m_2847749364692357175divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=
=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" style=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From=
:</b> Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"; target=
=3D"_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf of Bob Spidell=
via Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank=
">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"=
_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem</font>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt">
<div>Listers,<br>
<br>
I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the <=
br>
wall. Here's what I've done:<br>
<br>
- new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels<br>
- one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 <b=
r>
front wheels)<br>
- new master cylinder<br>
<br>
I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure ble=
d <br>
as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple <b=
r>
times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of <b=
r>
time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight <br>
pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be <br>
the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and <br>
bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol'=
s <br>
finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleedin=
g and <br>
old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. =
I'm <br>
not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit <br=
>
with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after <br>
some time.<br>
<br>
Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed.<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
Bob<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
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