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Mike is quite right here, if your lucky enough to have an old brake
drum, cutting a section out of it so you can see the shoe contact with
the drum makes this much easier.
Cheers
Larry Varley
On 5/07/2015 11:04 AM, Michael wrote:
> Another important operation when it comes to drum brakes is the
> importance of correctly adjusting the shoe "rest" pins. If these rests
> are not adjusted so that the shoes are contacting the drums straight
> on it is impossible to get a hard pedal.
>
> Michael S
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Sent: â??4/â??07/â??2015 8:28 p.m.
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes
>
> On the drum brake front cars the front brakes must be de adjusted first
> or you will probably never get all of the air out. It even says in the
> BN1 manual to do this. This pushes the pistons home and reduces the air
> in the wheel cylinders.
> My method for doing it alone - attach about 6 feet of clear soft tube to
> the bleeder screw. Put the tube up higher than the car ( over a step
> ladder etc ) open the bleed screw slightly and slowly pump the pedal,
> then see the fluid come up the tube and keep going until no air bubbles
> are coming up though the fluid. Close the bleed screw and repeat on all
> wheel. Works every time.
> Cheers
> Larry Varley
>
>
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> Version: 2015.0.6037 / Virus Database: 4365/10162 - Release Date: 07/04/15
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Mike is quite right here, if your lucky enough to have an old brake
drum, cutting a section out of it so you can see the shoe contact
with the drum makes this much easier.<br>
Cheers<br>
Larry Varley<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/07/2015 11:04 AM, Michael wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote cite="mid:55988299.0c9d6b0a.3e26.72b2@mx.google.com"
type="cite">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
<div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Another
important operation when it comes to drum brakes is the
importance of correctly adjusting the shoe "rest" pins. If
these rests are not adjusted so that the shoes are contacting
the drums straight on it is impossible to get a hard pedal.<br>
<br>
Michael S</div>
</div>
<div dir="ltr">
<hr><span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size:
11pt; font-weight: bold;">From: </span><span
style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a
moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:varley@cosmos.net.au";>Larry
Varley</a></span><br>
<span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;
font-weight: bold;">Sent: </span><span style="font-family:
Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">â??4/â??07/â??2015 8:28
p.m.</span><br>
<span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;
font-weight: bold;">To: </span><span style="font-family:
Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;"><a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net</a></span><br>
<span style="font-family: Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;
font-weight: bold;">Subject: </span><span style="font-family:
Calibri,sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Re: [Healeys] Bleeding
brakes</span><br>
<br>
</div>
On the drum brake front cars the front brakes must be de adjusted
first <br>
or you will probably never get all of the air out. It even says in
the <br>
BN1 manual to do this. This pushes the pistons home and reduces
the air <br>
in the wheel cylinders.<br>
My method for doing it alone - attach about 6 feet of clear soft
tube to <br>
the bleeder screw. Put the tube up higher than the car ( over a
step <br>
ladder etc ) open the bleed screw slightly and slowly pump the
pedal, <br>
then see the fluid come up the tube and keep going until no air
bubbles <br>
are coming up though the fluid. Close the bleed screw and repeat
on all <br>
wheel. Works every time.<br>
Cheers<br>
Larry Varley<br>
<br>
<br>
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<p class="" avgcert""="" color="#000000" align="left">No virus
found in this message.<br>
Checked by AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://www.avg.com";>www.avg.com</a><br>
Version: 2015.0.6037 / Virus Database: 4365/10162 - Release
Date: 07/04/15</p>
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