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I have never had any luck with those vacuum bleeders, for that same reason
of air entering through the thread of the bleeder screw. The bubbles never
stop coming! Always resort to the time honoured version of opening and
closing screws
John Rowe
Qld Australia
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon
Lachlan
Sent: Saturday, 4 July 2015 9:06 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes
Bleeding the furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible. ie it is
"best practise" but, in itself does not guarantee success. Many of us have
been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow failing to get all the air
out. I know that I have.
I've got various manuals and one of my two BMC has this paragraph:-
"If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
considerable time it is
possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In such
cases tighten
the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allow
the pedal to
return fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during
the last pedal
application."
ie you close the bleeder while fluid is still coming out. Messy, but it
works. The theory is that the air gets past the thread as you close it.
Fairly coarse threads. Pretty old bits of iron...plenty of wear.
If you use an Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open the bleeder
a little and leave it open until the bubbles stop.
Worth bearing in mind.
Simon
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-AU link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>I have never had any luck with those vacuum =
bleeders, for that same reason of air entering through the thread of the =
bleeder screw. The bubbles never stop coming! Always resort to the =
time honoured version of opening and closing =
screws<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'>John Rowe<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#1F497D'>Qld =
Australia<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm =
0cm 0cm'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span>=
</b><span lang=3DEN-US =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> Healeys =
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Simon =
Lachlan<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, 4 July 2015 9:06 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
'Healey List'<br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Bleeding =
brakes<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>Bleeding the =
furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible. ie it is =
“best practise” but, in itself does not guarantee success. =
Many of us have been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow failing =
to get all the air out. I know that I have.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>I’ve got =
various manuals and one of my two BMC has this =
paragraph:-<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'><o:p> </o:p></s=
pan></p><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span =
lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>“If the =
bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a considerable =
time it is<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>possible that air =
is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In such cases =
tighten<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>the bleeder screw =
at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allow the pedal =
to<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'text-autospace:none'><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>return fully before =
re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the last =
pedal<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>application.”<=
o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>ie you close the =
bleeder while fluid is still coming out. Messy, but it works. The theory =
is that the air gets past the thread as you close it. Fairly coarse =
threads. Pretty old bits of iron...plenty of =
wear.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'><o:p> </o:p></s=
pan></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>If you use an =
Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open the bleeder a little =
and leave it open until the bubbles stop.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>Worth bearing in =
mind.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'><o:p> </o:p></s=
pan></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-GB =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:TimesNewRoman'>Simon</span><span =
lang=3DEN-GB><o:p></o:p></span></p></div></body></html>
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