Re: [Fot] Solid Six?

[Bob Kramer via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>]

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I did that for years and I am looking for a better way!
Bob Kramer


On Tue, Dec 31, 2019 at 12:13 PM Duncan Charlton <
duncan.charlton54@gmail.com> wrote:

> Bob, I usually drive my race cars up onto wood ramps to allow the arms to
> swing under.  They=E2=80=99re made of doubled 2X8s with staggered 45=CB=
=9A angles at one
> end (so I can drive up the first 1-1/2=E2=80=9D and have the tire complet=
ely on the
> board already before going up the second 1-1/2=E2=80=9D rise) and scraps =
of inner
> tube stapled to the bottom to keep them from sliding on the floor as I
> drive on.
>
> Duncan
> On Dec 31, 2019, 11:36 AM -0600, Bob Kramer via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>,
> wrote:
>
> Got all the power stuff covered. With 40 foot depth I choose to run most
> everything down the middle at 20'.  The welder and compressor 220V are on
> the opposite wall from the breaker box..  I have another tip that I can
> pass on from Robert MacKenzie,  I plan on a free floor lift and getting t=
he
> arms under teh car is always a pain.  Robert puts his car on a set of
> dollies first. makes the arm swing a breeze.
> Bob Kramer
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 31, 2019 at 11:01 AM Bob Bownes -Seiri <bownes@seiri.com>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> It=E2=80=99s overkill, but I have an electrical reel and air hose reel o=
ver each
>> bay. It comes in terribly handy.
>>
>> Don=E2=80=99t know about the planned lift, but mine is 220VAC, so don=E2=
=80=99t forget
>> you may need that.
>>
>> On that note, I=E2=80=99ve been accumulating Real  Machine Tools of late=
 that all
>> need 220 3phase. So 220 drops are going in around the shop for those and
>> the welder. I find it easier to move the welder to the work than the wor=
k
>> to the welder sometimes.
>>
>> On Dec 31, 2019, at 11:54, Bob Kramer via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote=
:
>>
>> =EF=BB=BF
>> Those are great ideas. I used the RapidAir tubing system and I have an
>> overhead run 20' in.  Dropping a line down and mounting it on both posts=
 of
>> the lifts would be a simple upgrade.. I did think ahead and wired in an
>> extra 30 amp circuit up top. I was planning on using a retractable elect=
ric
>> hose reel but dropping an outlet to the posts might be a better plan.
>>
>> Bob Kramer
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 31, 2019 at 8:52 AM Bill Tobin via Fot <fot@autox.team.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Bob put the lift in the easiest accessible best lighted spot in the
>>> shop. Also run air and power outlets to the lift; this eliminates strin=
ging
>>> hoses and cords across the floor. Put a workbench close to the lift are=
a;
>>> maybe on wheels. You can also never have too much shelving. Or lighting
>>> especially as we age and eyesight isn't quite what is used to be! And m=
aybe
>>> have a small room sectioned off for your lathe milling machine and mayb=
e
>>> surface grinder.
>>>
>>> While you're at it maybe add another 10 or 20 feet to the original spec=
s!
>>>
>>> Ask me how I learned all this stuff!
>>>
>>> Happy New Year everyone.
>>>
>>> Cheers Bill
>>> On 12/31/2019 8:46 AM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote:
>>>
>>> Is that a 50 x 30?
>>>
>>> I built a 30 X 40 and it took the better part of a year to get it
>>> outfitted between other stuff. Shelving, electrical, lighting, work
>>> benches and air lines. With a 12' front door on a 30' front, I still ca=
n't
>>> decide where to put a lift.
>>>
>>> Bob Kramer
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at 12:04 PM John Styduhar via Fot <
>>> fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I recently picked up an early TR4 frame from a fellow WPTA club member
>>>> that is in decent shape and have all the necessary bits to build a wid=
e
>>>> track for my TR3.  This will be my next project after outfitting my ne=
w
>>>> headquarters.
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at 10:57 AM Mark J Bradakis via Fot <
>>>> fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> This TR3 Beta got me thinking.  The TR4 was based on a modified TR3
>>>>> frame.  The TR4A frame was a totally new design, and adaptable to
>>>>> either
>>>>> the IRS or solid axle rear suspension.  The TR6 used basically the sa=
me
>>>>> frame.  Are there solid axle TR6s out there?
>>>>>
>>>>> mjb.
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>>
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>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> fot@autox.team.net
>>>>
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>>
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>>> _______________________________________________fot@autox.team.net
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>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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>>
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>
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>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">I did that for years and I am looking for a better way!<br=
 clear=3D"all"><div><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature" data-smartma=
il=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr">Bob Kramer</div></div></div><br></d=
iv><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On =
Tue, Dec 31, 2019 at 12:13 PM Duncan Charlton &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:duncan.=
charlton54@gmail.com">duncan.charlton54@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><=
blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-l=
eft:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">



<div>
<div name=3D"messageBodySection">
<div dir=3D"auto">Bob, I usually drive my race cars up onto wood ramps to a=
llow the arms to swing under.=C2=A0 They=E2=80=99re made of doubled 2X8s wi=
th staggered 45=CB=9A angles at one end (so I can drive up the first 1-1/2=
=E2=80=9D and have the tire completely on the board already before going up=
 the second 1-1/2=E2=80=9D rise) and scraps of inner tube stapled to the bo=
ttom to keep them from sliding on the floor as I drive on.</div>
</div>
<div name=3D"messageSignatureSection"><br>
<div>Duncan</div>
</div>
<div name=3D"messageReplySection">On Dec 31, 2019, 11:36 AM -0600, Bob Kram=
er via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">fot@=
autox.team.net</a>&gt;, wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"margin:5px;padding-left:10px;border-left=
:thin solid rgb(26,188,156)">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Got all the power stuff covered. With 40 foot depth I choo=
se=C2=A0to run most everything down the middle at 20&#39;.=C2=A0 The welder=
=C2=A0and compressor 220V are on the opposite=C2=A0wall from the breaker bo=
x..=C2=A0 I have another tip that I can pass on from Robert MacKenzie,=C2=
=A0 I plan on a free floor lift and getting the arms under teh car is alway=
s a pain.=C2=A0 Robert puts his car on a set of dollies first. makes the ar=
m swing a breeze.<br clear=3D"all">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Bob Kramer</div>
</div>
</div>
<br></div>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Dec 31, 2019 at 11:01 AM Bob =
Bownes -Seiri &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bownes@seiri.com"; target=3D"_blank">bow=
nes@seiri.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:5px;padding-left:10px;bor=
der-left:thin solid rgb(230,126,34)">
<div dir=3D"auto">
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">It=E2=80=99s overkill, but I have an electrical reel and a=
ir hose reel over each bay. It comes in terribly handy.=C2=A0</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Don=E2=80=99t know about the planned lift, but mine is 220=
VAC, so don=E2=80=99t forget you may need that.=C2=A0</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On that note, I=E2=80=99ve been accumulating Real =C2=A0Ma=
chine Tools of late that all need 220 3phase. So 220 drops are going in aro=
und the shop for those and the welder. I find it easier to move the welder =
to the work than the work to the welder sometimes.=C2=A0</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"margin:5px;padding-left:10px;border-left=
:thin solid rgb(52,152,219)">On Dec 31, 2019, at 11:54, Bob Kramer via Fot =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.=
net</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
<br></blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"margin:5px;padding-left:10px;border-left=
:thin solid rgb(52,152,219)">
<div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
<div dir=3D"ltr">Those are great ideas. I used the RapidAir tubing system a=
nd I have an overhead run 20&#39; in.=C2=A0 Dropping a line down and mounti=
ng it on both posts of the lifts would be a simple upgrade.. I did think ah=
ead and wired in an extra 30 amp circuit up top. I was planning on using a =
retractable electric hose reel but dropping an outlet to the posts might be=
 a better plan.=C2=A0
<div><br></div>
<div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Bob Kramer</div>
</div>
</div>
<br></div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Tue, Dec 31, 2019 at 8:52 AM Bill =
Tobin via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">f=
ot@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:5px;padding-left:10px;bor=
der-left:thin solid rgb(211,84,0)">
<div bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF">
<p>Bob put the lift in the easiest accessible best lighted spot in the shop=
. Also run air and power outlets to the lift; this eliminates stringing hos=
es and cords across the floor. Put a workbench close to the lift area; mayb=
e on wheels. You can also never have too much shelving. Or lighting especia=
lly as we age and eyesight isn&#39;t quite what is used to be! And maybe ha=
ve a small room sectioned off for your lathe milling machine and maybe surf=
ace grinder.</p>
<p>While you&#39;re at it maybe add another 10 or 20 feet to the original s=
pecs!<br></p>
<p>Ask me how I learned all this stuff!</p>
<p>Happy New Year everyone.</p>
<p>Cheers Bill<br></p>
<div>On 12/31/2019 8:46 AM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"margin:5px;padding-left:10px;border-left=
:thin solid rgb(52,73,94)">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Is that a 50 x 30?=C2=A0
<div><br></div>
<div>I built a 30 X 40 and it took the better part of a year to get it outf=
itted between other stuff. Shelving, electrical, lighting, work benches=C2=
=A0and air lines. With a 12&#39; front door on a 30&#39; front, I still can=
&#39;t decide where to put a lift.</div>
<div><br clear=3D"all">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Bob Kramer</div>
</div>
</div>
<br></div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at 12:04 PM John=
 Styduhar via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blan=
k">fot@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:5px;padding-left:10px;bor=
der-left:thin solid rgb(46,204,113)">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">I recently picked up=
 an early TR4 frame from a fellow WPTA club member that is in decent shape =
and have all the necessary bits to build a wide track for my TR3.=C2=A0 Thi=
s will be my next project after outfitting my new headquarters.=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at 10:57 AM Mark=
 J Bradakis via Fot &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_bl=
ank">fot@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:5px;padding-left:10px;bor=
der-left:thin solid rgb(155,89,182)">This TR3 Beta got me thinking.=C2=A0 T=
he TR4 was based on a modified TR3<br>
frame.=C2=A0 The TR4A frame was a totally new design, and adaptable to eith=
er<br>
the IRS or solid axle rear suspension.=C2=A0 The TR6 used basically the sam=
e<br>
frame.=C2=A0 Are there solid axle TR6s out there?<br>
<br>
mjb.<br>
<br>
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