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41. RE: Bent outrigger - Fix or replace? (score: 1): Author: "Greg Schluge" <gschluge@cstone.net>; Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2001 15:18:21 -0500; If it is not badly bent, you can have most places that do front end alignments bend it for you. I fixed a Honda accord that way, they charged me 80 bucks. If it is bent badly, you will have to get a; /html/spitfires/2001-01/msg00449.html (7,683 bytes)
42. RE: Radiator (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 09:01:21 -0400; It is better to recore the radiator. Old ones have limited life at best. If you can afford the 200 bucks at a local radiator shop you will be money and headaches ahead at the end of the ordeal. List,; /html/spitfires/2000-10/msg00079.html (6,813 bytes)
43. RE: Welding Spit body panels (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Fri, 8 Sep 2000 10:03:17 -0400; I have a gas rig and a mig. The gas is slow and hot. It also spits through rust. I was good with it though and could form metal over curved areas. I bought a mig and had some trouble learning how to; /html/spitfires/2000-09/msg00334.html (7,562 bytes)
44. RE: Floor pan repair (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 09:25:33 -0400; I work from the top whenever I can. I tack a corner then hold the patch with a screwdriver and tack all corners and high places. If it is a small hole, I just weld it shut. Make sure you get your mig; /html/spitfires/2000-09/msg00379.html (7,080 bytes)
45. RE: welding cast iron (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Sat, 9 Sep 2000 09:47:59 -0400; I have done this successfully before, using backyard standards. First take the burning tip on your gas rig and heat the cast iron as hot as you can, uniformly. I welded a block and could not get it c; /html/spitfires/2000-09/msg00381.html (7,626 bytes)
46. RE: Welding steel to stainless (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2000 17:26:00 -0400; It can be welded with a mig but you would be better off brazing it. You will have to be very careful with the braze because the tanks are held to the core with solder. --Original Message-- From: owne; /html/spitfires/2000-09/msg00823.html (7,556 bytes)
47. RE: Numerical equivalent of temperature gauge range (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Tue, 8 Aug 2000 21:49:46 -0400; My 76 varies from mid to one notch before high temp. It depends on the outside temperature. I do not have the radiator deflectors on my car. I think adding them would help. You may have a scaled radi; /html/spitfires/2000-08/msg00290.html (8,324 bytes)
48. RE: rust paint (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Sun, 13 Aug 2000 23:19:54 -0400; It is called "RUST CONVERTER'. There are many manufacturers. I use a brand by Pliasti-cote. You should be able to get this at Advance Auto parts or any other chain Auto store. It is great stuff. I pt; /html/spitfires/2000-08/msg00472.html (7,340 bytes)
49. RE: Radiator Leak (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 21:02:16 -0400; I suggest that you have it re-cored at a local radiator shop. Make sure that they guarantee their work. --Original Message-- From: owner-spitfires@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-spitfires@autox.team.ne; /html/spitfires/2000-07/msg00182.html (7,224 bytes)
50. RE: HS4 needle selection (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 22:06:31 -0400; Ever think of putting a V-8 air pump on these California spits to get through the smog tests? One of those baby's should blow enough fresh air in there to thin out any exhaust. Just a thought. Hello; /html/spitfires/2000-07/msg00184.html (7,130 bytes)
51. RE: Radiator Deflectors (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 22:14:19 -0400; Does anyone have a template or a picture of what these shrouds should look like. My 76 does not have them and I am not sure what they should look like. --Original Message-- From: owner-spitfires@auto; /html/spitfires/2000-07/msg00185.html (9,046 bytes)
52. RE: Air Conditioning (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 22:18:00 -0400; I bought a roll of similar stuff from spit-bits. It has aluminum on one side and fabric on the other. Similar to what is used on new cars. I have just finished putting this in and do not know how it; /html/spitfires/2000-07/msg00186.html (7,418 bytes)
53. RE: abbreviations (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 22:40:00 -0400; PO Previous Owner DPO Dumb Previous Owner These are the only abbrev's I have figured out so far. Can someone enlighten me as to some of the abbreviations that are being used on the list. I'm not a ch; /html/spitfires/2000-07/msg00188.html (7,483 bytes)
54. Tano cover wanted (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Wed, 5 Jul 2000 22:56:35 -0400; I would like to purchase a Tano cover for my 76 spit. Does not have to be pristene, minor rips that are repairable are ok. Reply to: Greg Schluge Email: gschluge@cstone.net (Home) Email: gxs01@cho.li; /html/spitfires/2000-07/msg00189.html (6,415 bytes)
55. RE: Testing horn. (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Fri, 7 Jul 2000 12:35:39 -0400; The problem is probably in the horn button. If the little spring contact gets turned a little, no horn. You may have a bad ground. There are several ground straps on the steering column transversing; /html/spitfires/2000-07/msg00261.html (7,676 bytes)
56. RE: Seat foams and electrical no-no (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Sun, 9 Jul 2000 23:29:15 -0400; I just had my seats done by a local upholster, he made all the foams for both seats, made the top for one sear and the bottom for the other seat. The price was 200 bucks. Greetings once again, Has an; /html/spitfires/2000-07/msg00426.html (7,597 bytes)
57. RE: Seat Foams (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 22:02:10 -0400; I think I responded to that query, I just had my seats done at a local upholster for 200 bucks. For that he made a left side top and a right side bottom cover that look like factory and replaced all; /html/spitfires/2000-07/msg00428.html (8,160 bytes)
58. RE: floor pan removal (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 22:08:51 -0400; I use an air body saw available from harbor freight for about 30 bucks. You will need a mig welder to weld the pans in. That is a little more pricey, 1500 bucks for one that will work. You should hav; /html/spitfires/2000-07/msg00429.html (7,714 bytes)
59. RE: Wiring an ammeter (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 22:27:04 -0400; You need ammeter basics, An ammeter is nothing but a voltage sensing device that has an internal or external SHUNT or resistor. There is usually a fusible link hooked into the plus lead of the batter; /html/spitfires/2000-07/msg00430.html (8,787 bytes)
60. RE: Escort Catalytic Converters (score: 1): Author: gschluge@cstone.net (Greg Schluge); Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 10:45:17 -0400; My 76 has a sticker on the driver's side door column that reads "NO CATYLIST". If you have a 76 you should not need one, at least that was the Virginia inspectors conclusion. It was carefully NOT pai; /html/spitfires/2000-06/msg00717.html (7,493 bytes)

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