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121. Fwd: Enginestand mounting (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2002 15:28:35 -0700 (PDT)
I have always removed the engine back plate and attached the engine directly to the engine stand with bolts. I know what you mean, it's hard to imagine that a few bolts threaded about 3/4" into the b
/html/6pack/2002-10/msg00563.html (7,658 bytes)

122. Fwd: Weber Carbs (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2002 16:35:08 -0700 (PDT)
In my opinion, Webers are for all-out racing applications, Strombergs are good for the street. Webers have tons of variables that can be changed to make them work for your purpose. This makes it comp
/html/6pack/2002-10/msg00604.html (8,457 bytes)

123. Fwd: Re: lever action shocks (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 16:36:42 -0800 (PST)
I can't speak for Richard, but I've had mine on the car for over 3 years and probably 20,000 miles, no problems and no stress fractures on the frame. Using Spax shocks. Tim Holbrook 1971 TR6 ________
/html/6pack/2002-10/msg00684.html (9,291 bytes)

124. Re: Fwd: Re: lever action shocks (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 2002 19:34:02 -0800 (PST)
Good point Dave, I wasn't very clear in my posting. The kit that I have is the one-piece bracket type. I got mine from NAR Inc in New Jersey. A quick note, there are a few different types of one-piec
/html/6pack/2002-10/msg00687.html (11,597 bytes)

125. Fwd: Re: Transmission rebuild or not? (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2002 14:00:38 -0700 (PDT)
I do not have Racetorations syncros in my gearbox, but my Dad installed them on his Stag gearbox with J type o/d. Apparently they require some "fitting" to work properly. I don't know much else, I as
/html/6pack/2002-09/msg00045.html (13,465 bytes)

126. Fwd: Re: Fw: TR6 track experience (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2002 13:53:05 -0700 (PDT)
Jorge couldn't get this posting through to the list, but wanted me to share it with everyone. A stock-engined TR6 takes a blown Miata on an open track day? Hmmmm.... Hey Jorge, was this the Miata tha
/html/6pack/2002-09/msg00064.html (12,318 bytes)

127. Fwd: Rear Springs (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Sep 2002 16:00:03 -0700 (PDT)
Goodparts springs (www.goodparts.com) are uprated and lower the car about an inch. They make the car look awesome, and handle great. They are also available through TRF, but make sure you specify the
/html/6pack/2002-09/msg00095.html (8,434 bytes)

128. Fwd: T/O Bearing Question (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2002 08:34:39 -0700 (PDT)
On mine (I had several die back-to-back due to the "bad lot" of bearings), the bearing fell apart, causing a huge amount of play in the bearing assembly. This results in the bearing not spinning smoo
/html/6pack/2002-09/msg00108.html (7,411 bytes)

129. Fwd: SPEED (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 05:57:57 -0700 (PDT)
Top speed with stock 3.7 rear end gears, stock tire diameter, stock gearbox ratios, is about 110 in 4th gear, 135 in 4th with overdrive engaged. That's at engine redline, so this is very theoretical.
/html/6pack/2002-09/msg00188.html (8,704 bytes)

130. Fwd: Where is my SPEED? (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2002 10:55:21 -0700 (PDT)
Sounds like your tach is WAY off. In 4th gear at 70, you should be pulling about 3500 rpm. I have similar problems, but not to your extreme. My tach is accurate at idle, but gets more and more inaccu
/html/6pack/2002-09/msg00203.html (8,918 bytes)

131. Fwd: Valve stem oil seals. Do they work? (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2002 19:42:49 -0700 (PDT)
I have valve stem oil seals on my car, along with the rocker oil feed line, and the setup works great. However, I don't know if the oil seals will work as a "band aid" for you car. It sounds like you
/html/6pack/2002-09/msg00516.html (8,300 bytes)

132. Fwd: Re: fan ext. bolt (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 7 Aug 2002 09:00:38 -0700 (PDT)
If you use the rope trick (stuff rope down one cylinder, as you turn the crank bolt to try to loosen it, the piston will move up and then stop as it hits all the rope, then you can loosen the bolt),
/html/6pack/2002-08/msg00146.html (8,848 bytes)

133. Fwd: Reverse Light Switch (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 09:40:55 -0700 (PDT)
First of all, are you quite sure you don't have a reverse switch on the gearbox cover? This sounds strange. The reverse switch should be at the very LEFT side of the gearbox cover (when looking at th
/html/6pack/2002-08/msg00307.html (8,197 bytes)

134. Fwd: Clutch Bleeding (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 09:57:26 -0700 (PDT)
Well, if you are getting 1/2" of travel on the slave cylinder pushrod (I assume that's what you meant in your email), then it sounds like your hydraulics are working fine. When you push on the clutch
/html/6pack/2002-08/msg00308.html (10,013 bytes)

135. RE: Clutch Bleeding (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 13:51:05 -0700 (PDT)
Sorry, I didn't mean to suggest that the arm will not move at all. You should be able to move the arm towards the back of the car until the bearing comes in contact with the clutch. You should then b
/html/6pack/2002-08/msg00365.html (9,323 bytes)

136. Fwd: Re: Toyota conversion (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 10:36:27 -0700 (PDT)
Hang on, I thought Van Adeker's (spelling??) kit was more like $1000. For that price, I'd do the 5 speed in a second. It's a Toyota, which mean it will last forever. And it's rated for around 300hp,
/html/6pack/2002-08/msg00433.html (10,030 bytes)

137. Fwd: Welded Clutch Fork (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 09:20:06 -0700 (PDT)
If you had a bad bearing, the clutch would still disengage, it would just make a heck of a lot of noise (I went through 4 bad bearings in a few months several years back, huge annoyance). You can als
/html/6pack/2002-08/msg00524.html (9,276 bytes)

138. Fwd: Differential removal and pin strengthening kits (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 09:19:27 -0700 (PDT)
TRF sells a kit to strenghten the diff mounting points on the chassis. I had this kit installed on my car after the chassis mount cracked. Everything's been fine ever since. Tim Holbrook 1971 TR6
/html/6pack/2002-08/msg00574.html (8,649 bytes)

139. Fwd: Tire Size and RPM's (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 08:55:54 -0700 (PDT)
Check out www.buckeyetriumphs.org (one of the best TR6 references on the net). On the Technical page, there is a road speed vs. rpm calculator. Tim Holbrook 1971 TR6 Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002
/html/6pack/2002-07/msg00012.html (7,819 bytes)

140. Fwd: RE: Oil Pressure (score: 1)
Author: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2002 10:06:30 -0700 (PDT)
Wow, those are some pretty high numbers! I'm not sure if those are typical of most Triumph straight sixes. My oil pressure gauge is the stock piece and isn't great, but my brother has a GT6 with an a
/html/6pack/2002-07/msg00017.html (9,479 bytes)


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