Well, if you are getting 1/2" of travel on the slave cylinder pushrod
(I assume that's what you meant in your email), then it sounds like
your hydraulics are working fine. When you push on the clutch pedal,
do you feel the springiness of a normal clutch, or just one fluid
motion with little resistance? If you aren't feeling any spring, then
maybe the bolt that holds the throwout fork to the cross-shaft is
broken.
Easiest way to check is to pull the clevis pin that hold the pushrod to
the cross-shaft lever. Push the lever towards the back of the car
hard. If it gives and you can push straight through with no
resistance, you've got a broken fork bolt. If you hit hard resistance,
then it sounds like your clutch is working. Increase your leverage on
the lever with a length of pipe, and try to disengage the clutch
manually. You should feel the springiness of a regular clutch. This
should help you do some diagnosing without having to remove the
gearbox. Fixing the problem, however, will require the gearbox to be
pulled.
Check out the excellent clutch diagnostics/repair articles on
www.buckeyetriumphs.org. These are a great resource to fix your
problem.
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- Mark Wright <mewright@eznet.net> wrote:
> From: Mark Wright <mewright@eznet.net>
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> Subject: Clutch Bleeding
> Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2002 03:56:19 GMT
>
> I've been sitting on the sidelines for a few months since a bought my
> 6,
> but enough is enough!
>
> When I bought the car the clutch pedal went to the floor so I rebuilt
> the
> clutch MC and SC. Now I'm having problems engaging in any gears
> since I
> bled the lines. After 3 or 4 tries I THINK I got all the air out.
> The
> clevis pin travels 0.5 inches, but yet I can't shift into 1st thru
> 4th and
> reverse just grinds. The clevis pin is snug and the hole on the rod
> is
> just slightly oblongated.
>
> History on the car, supposedly it ran fine before it sat for 5 years
> before
> I got it. I've got a receipt from 1989 for a new clutch installation
> and
> according to my records only 1,500 miles have been put on since.
>
> Has anyone encountered a similar situation? Could I still have air
> in the
> system, is it worth bleeding again. Should I try the upper hole of
> the
> clutch operating arm or won't that help. Could the clutch be stuck
> to the
> flywheel from sitting for 5 years.
>
> Fearing the worst,
>
> Mark Wright
> Fairport, NY
> 1972 TR6
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