If you use the rope trick (stuff rope down one cylinder, as you turn
the crank bolt to try to loosen it, the piston will move up and then
stop as it hits all the rope, then you can loosen the bolt), I would
recommend pulling your rocker shaft first. This will ensure that all
the valves are closed no matter where the crank is, and you can avoid
accidentally bending valves.
However, I have found that I've always been able to loosen the bolt by
putting the car in gear, having someone stand on the brakes hard (my
parking brake isn't effective enough), and then pulling hard on the
bolt with a long wrench (torque wrench works well).
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor@webtv.net> wrote:
> From: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
> Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 23:18:15 -0700 (PDT)
> To: brad1184@hotmail.com (Brad .)
> CC: 6pack@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: fan ext. bolt
>
> Brad---If your clutch won't hold the engine from turning with the
> tranny
> in gear, and the brake on, nor have an impact wrench, there are a
> couple
> other ways to keep the crankshaft from turning.
> You can use a flywheel ring gear lock, available from any major auto
> parts house, OR use a variant of the old "rope trick". This time you
> feed rope into a spark plug hole* and catch a piston coming back up
> as
> you turn the fan extension bolt c.c.w.
>
> *You will want to select a piston that has "just fired" so that both
> of
> its valves would be closed. (Compare #1 on the timing pulley TDC to
> #1
> rotor position)
>
> Dick
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