Sorry, I didn't mean to suggest that the arm will not move at all. You
should be able to move the arm towards the back of the car until the
bearing comes in contact with the clutch. You should then be able to
pull the arm towards the front of the car until the bearing carrier
hits the tranny. This would probably be about an inch or two of total
travel (from stop to stop). However, you should be able to manually
disengage the clutch by adding some leverage to the lever (with a long
length of pipe) and pushing on the pipe towards the back of the car.
You should feel hard resistance, but be able to push through it and
feel the "springiness" of the clutch disengaging. If you can push the
arm towards the back of the car and never feel any resistance, then
your cross shaft bolt is broken.
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- Mark Wright <mewright@eznet.net> wrote:
> Well I tried many of the suggestions offered from those who
> gratefully
> responded, but to no avail. I tried many of the ideas to free up a
> frozen
> flywheel and clutch, including - starting in gear, lifting the back
> end and
> starting in 4th and depressing the clutch and brake, or quickly
> hitting the
> starter in 4th. Tim Holbrook noted that the clutch cross shaft arm
> should
> not move easily when the clevis pin is removed from the SC pushrod,
> but the
> arm moves freely back and forth. It seems that the problem is
> internal to
> the clutch fork pin. I'm afraid I'll be getting into the gearbox
> soon. It's
> a good thing I didn't glue down the new carpets yet.
>
> I guess this is what happens when you let any old mechanic work on
> these
> cars when every reference suggests replacing the $10 pin while your
> in
> there. Thanks for all the suggestions. I'll keep everyone posted.
>
> Mark Wright
> Fairport, NY
> 1972 TR6
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