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41. RE: Leaking Carbs and Brake lights (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 12:32:11 -0600; And to add to Dick's excellent suggestion, if it is your switch, consider replacing it. The default TR6 switch is a cheap plastic POS which can be easily replaced with a more robust version for next; /html/6pack/2001-08/msg00338.html (8,115 bytes)
42. RE: Hose inlet on brake vacumn booster (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2001 12:37:57 -0600; Dave, here is how I did it. It works best if there is a helper. Get two thin strips of wood (like the stuff paint stir sticks are made from) or other soft yet sturdy material. Then get two large fla; /html/6pack/2001-06/msg00005.html (7,707 bytes)
43. RE: was carb part/Ebay fraud (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Tue, 1 May 2001 16:33:07 -0600; What kind of rating did this seller have? Based on your description it must not be so good? I have returned parts to sellers when they were not as advertised with no hassles. But I only buy from tho; /html/6pack/2001-05/msg00005.html (7,160 bytes)
44. RE: .750" wheel cylinders and rocker pedestal failure (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Tue, 29 May 2001 21:56:21 -0600; My 76 is the 19th last one made and it too has the .75" rear wheel cylinders. Tough to find rebuild kits for! Peter Zaborski CF58310UO; /html/6pack/2001-05/msg00264.html (7,348 bytes)
45. RE: Master Cylinder (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2001 18:06:29 -0600; Brad, I think if I recall correctly that you have to undo a large allen head nut which keeps the tipping valve in the MC body. In order to do this you need a 1/2" allen key (or equivalent). I've hea; /html/6pack/2001-04/msg00192.html (7,243 bytes)
46. RE: Coker tires (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 19:18:23 -0700; One problem I see with this claim is that a tire which was made to have a "line" on it will have the raised letters (and other characters, icons, logos, whatever) positioned so that the line does no; /html/6pack/2001-03/msg00160.html (8,025 bytes)
47. RE: Dashboard Facia Removal (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2001 10:06:02 -0700; I think in addition to the 5 screws, tach & speedo, you need to remove the following: - wiper/washer switch - hazard switch - glove box door check strap screws This allows the dash to be lowered int; /html/6pack/2001-03/msg00180.html (7,832 bytes)
48. RE: re sepercharger (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 12:14:28 -0700; Hi Dan, With all due respect, unless you were kidding I have to disagree with some of your remarks. The SC on a TR6 motor is a bolt-on once you have all the parts according to all I've read about it; /html/6pack/2001-03/msg00195.html (8,323 bytes)
49. RE: Placement of engine compartment decals and labels (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 10:07:33 -0700; FWIW, my 76 (also original) only has the tune up info label on the underside of the hood roughly over the carbs (when hood is closed). No decals on the fenders at all. TRF's catalog claims the 76 ha; /html/6pack/2001-02/msg00013.html (8,032 bytes)
50. RE: Placement of engine compartment decals and labels (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2001 20:26:24 -0700; Jeff, according to the TRF TR6 catalog (p399), 69, 75 & 76 were years which had emissions labels on the underside of the hood. The others were on the left fender well. And in 76, supposedly they had; /html/6pack/2001-02/msg00022.html (7,988 bytes)
51. RE: Rheostat (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 13:48:04 -0700; You don't say why you are pulling the knob off. Presumably it's not just to have a look at the shaft of the rheostat... In which case, if you are doing more work on the dash, you might try placing t; /html/6pack/2001-01/msg00038.html (7,320 bytes)
52. RE: Carbs and more Long! (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 21:43:48 -0700; Yes. I believe the thread is the same as a -5AN plug (yep, that's -5AN). Can't recall what the thread spec is but I bet if you go to the aeroquip site (I assume aeroquip.com), you should be able to; /html/6pack/2001-01/msg00142.html (9,816 bytes)
53. RE: Carb rebulid question (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 22:44:50 -0700; Since you are taking the carbs apart, why not attack the plug from the inside so to speak. Once you have the float chamber off, you should be able to see the 'barbs' which hold the plug in place. Sq; /html/6pack/2001-01/msg00144.html (8,030 bytes)
54. RE: Carb rebulid question (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2001 22:49:00 -0700; Since you are taking the carbs apart, why not attack the plug from the inside so to speak. Once you have the float chamber off, you should be able to see the 'barbs' which hold the plug in place. Sq; /html/6pack/2001-01/msg00145.html (8,043 bytes)
55. RE: EGR Valve Help (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 11:30:38 -0700; The large nut is a lock nut. It should turn freely when you put the right size wrench on it. Good luck! Peter Zaborski CF58310UO; /html/6pack/2001-01/msg00193.html (6,955 bytes)
56. RE: EGR Valve Help (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Sun, 28 Jan 2001 16:02:03 -0700; Probably not but that doesn't mean there aren't rebuilt ones. Try BPNW if you live in the USA. <http://www.bpnorthwest.com/page18.html> -- ( ouch!!! ) Good luck! Peter Zaborski CF58310UO (pollution; /html/6pack/2001-01/msg00195.html (7,189 bytes)
57. after market steering wheels -- tr6 (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Sun, 3 Dec 2000 23:29:01 -0700; Hi listers, Has anyone on the list fitted a 13" diameter leather Moto-Lita or Lecarra steering wheel to their TR6 (or TR5/TR250 or TR4)? I wonder if the smaller diameter would look 'odd' in the car o; /html/6pack/2000-12/msg00002.html (7,179 bytes)
58. RE: Removal of 74-76 TR6 (USA) bumper guards (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 11:17:07 -0700; Here is what I did on my 76: 1. The fronts can be removed with the bumper in place. The rears require the bumper to come off. 2. The front ones require some care in removing the rubber pieces once t; /html/6pack/2000-12/msg00139.html (9,607 bytes)
59. RE: A cold day for sixing (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Sat, 18 Nov 2000 20:19:18 -0700; < and later > Not that I have ever done this myself but... Check that when you re-installed the fan switch, you did not bend the lowest tab on the back of it down so that it contacts the dash suppor; /html/6pack/2000-11/msg00059.html (7,582 bytes)
60. RE: Radiator Shroud & Intake (score: 1): Author: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>; Date: Sun, 19 Nov 2000 18:01:48 -0700; Does anyone know how this intake works when the stock charcoal canister of the later cars is in place? Seems like the 3" diameter hose might be a tight fit if the canister is retained. Has anyone us; /html/6pack/2000-11/msg00068.html (8,142 bytes)

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