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RE: Leaking Carbs and Brake lights

To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Leaking Carbs and Brake lights
From: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>
Date: Mon, 27 Aug 2001 12:32:11 -0600
> From: tr6taylor@webtv.net [mailto:tr6taylor@webtv.net]
> Sent: Monday, August 27, 2001 12:12 PM
> 
> Chuck---After you put the lawn mower away, you can test the 
> brake light switch. The simpliest way without test equipment
> is to remove the two leads that go to the switch and connect
> them together. Turn the ignition key on, and see if the brake
> lights glow. If they do, the problem is in the switch, or the way
> it was adjusted.

And to add to Dick's excellent suggestion, if it is your switch, consider
replacing it. The default TR6 switch is a cheap plastic POS which can be
easily replaced with a more robust version for next to nothing. Go to the
local self serve junk yard and find a switch from a 70's BMW (I've seen them
in 3 series and 5 series cars). The switch is a direct replacement and has a
nice solid metal body. Make sure to grab the two jam nuts when you remove
the switch so you can use them on your car. Shouldn't cost more than $1 (at
least that's what they cost where I live).

I find removing the driver's seat makes access to the brake switch much
easier and reduces the contortions required to install and adjust it. Two
bolts and it's out. I place a thick foam pad over the seat rails to protect
my back when doing this type of work.

HTH

Peter Zaborski  CF58310UO

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