Greg Solow wrote:
> I have read that that is what is happening. I do run wire wheels and
> always tighten them untill the knock-off won't turn anymore with a hard blow
> with a lead hammer.
Greg, I read long ago that in days of old the maxim was that you
gave the knock-off three good belts with your hammer. One for each of the turns
at Brooklands!
> They have never loosened, but because they start out tight, I haven't noticed
> their tightening up either. I always make certain
> that both the hub and wheel splines are absolutley clean and then grease them
> with "sta-lube" brand , boat tailer and marine grease. I also put a light
> coat of grease on the outer taper of the wheel where the knock off pushes on
> the wheel to hold it in
> place.
>
> Regards, Greg Solow
>
Greg, the wheels "should" tighten as you drive, but if you have
grease on the conical mating surface where the knock-off meets the wheel, you
will overcome the metal-to-metal "bite" that is needed for the Sturmey-Archer
hubs to do their thing. And for those of you who remember those great English
bicycles and their Sturmey-Archer hubs and gears.... yes, it is the same
company. Personally, from solving the problem of getting very hot wire wheels
off race cars during pit changes, the guys and gals in Team Healey here in New
Zealand used to put nothing more than a slosh of kerosene (applied with a small
paint brush) on the knock-off to give just a "little" bit of lubrication. It
worked like a charm for us. Use "just enough" of grease on the spline, and make
sure that only a rust-proofing smear is on the inner conical driving surface,
otherwise all the driving force is taken up by the poor old splines which then
become razor sharp in no time and eventually cut out! Hope this info. helps
you!
Cheers,
Mark Donaldson
Auckland
N.Z.
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