Thanks for your concern and advise. I've received several replies of
satisfied listers who have had good success with the radiator shops. Some
people suggest fiberglassing it. I've gotten a spectrum of fixes from under
$10 for epoxy to $200 for dip and seal. While you may be correct that in the
long term..5yrs+... a radiator shop repair may not last, I think I will talk
with the local shops on Monday. I really dont want to spend more than $100
if I can help it. It's a gamble, but as I said... lots of listers seem to
have gone that route and are happy.
Thanks again
Winnie
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
> [mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Sunday, July 11, 1999 2:51 PM
> To: Jerry Oliver
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: how do I patch leaking gas tank
>
>
>
> Well, I've done it several times over the years, without any
> problems.
> You do need some modicum of common sense, but gasoline has a distinct
> odor, which you can smell in concentrations far below a flammable
> mixture. If you flush the tank with soap and water until it doesn't
> smell any more, it _can't_ explode. Of course, you definitely want to
> be outdoors, so fumes can't collect.
>
> The first TR3 I did was maybe 25 years ago, it's still
> sitting in Dad's
> garage and had gas in the tank last time I looked. I did my
> current car
> about 17 years ago, and it hasn't leaked yet (although I did have to
> replace the sender gasket a few years ago). There have been
> other cars
> (not all TR3s), and none of them ever leaked again while I had them.
>
> In all cases, I just 'buttered' the rusty area with soft solder and
> painted with flat black Rustoleum. Didn't use any interior
> treatment at
> all.
>
> Randall
>
> Jerry Oliver wrote:
> >
> > I'm a bit worried that you might make a very dangerous mistake in
> > attempting to repair your gas tank. Under no circumstances
> should you
> > weld or solder on your tank at home. Even after cleaning at
> a radiator
> > shop, the gasoline fumes may be explosive. The fuel cannot
> be entirely
> > removed by the relatively mild solution used on radiators.
> They can only
> > be removed by dipping as performed on bodies and frames. It
> is likely
> > even more pin holes will them appear. Paying someone $200.00 for
> > soldering is likely to effective for only a time. The thin
> spots in the
> > tank will continue to rust and will eventually create
> holes. Sloshing
> > compounds are very harmful to many older cars fuel and
> carb. systems. Do
> > not use them. It's a quick fix that will cause clogging in
> the future.
> > The only and best way short of installing a new tank is to
> send the tank
> > to one the Tank-Renu outlets (no financial interest etc.),
> where they
> > will be dipped, repaired and coated both inside and out
> with a teflon
> > material that is impervious to fuel. They advertise in
> Hemmings. I had
> > my TR4A tank done for about $175.00, and its been fine for nearly 5
> > years. I have also had other tanks done on classic and antique cars.
> > Good luck. Jerry Oliver.
> > Winnie Olmer wrote:
> > >
> > > The bottom of my TR6 tank has about 10-15 pinholes. The
> largest being 1/16"
> > > dia. The metal around the pinholes seems solid enough if
> there is a way to
> > > patch the holes and stop the rust. I have Eastwoods fuel
> tank sealer, but I
> > > need a way to seal the outside. Is there a gas resistant
> epoxy paste sort of
> > > product that can be used?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Winnie
>
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