Well, I've done it several times over the years, without any problems.
You do need some modicum of common sense, but gasoline has a distinct
odor, which you can smell in concentrations far below a flammable
mixture. If you flush the tank with soap and water until it doesn't
smell any more, it _can't_ explode. Of course, you definitely want to
be outdoors, so fumes can't collect.
The first TR3 I did was maybe 25 years ago, it's still sitting in Dad's
garage and had gas in the tank last time I looked. I did my current car
about 17 years ago, and it hasn't leaked yet (although I did have to
replace the sender gasket a few years ago). There have been other cars
(not all TR3s), and none of them ever leaked again while I had them.
In all cases, I just 'buttered' the rusty area with soft solder and
painted with flat black Rustoleum. Didn't use any interior treatment at
all.
Randall
Jerry Oliver wrote:
>
> I'm a bit worried that you might make a very dangerous mistake in
> attempting to repair your gas tank. Under no circumstances should you
> weld or solder on your tank at home. Even after cleaning at a radiator
> shop, the gasoline fumes may be explosive. The fuel cannot be entirely
> removed by the relatively mild solution used on radiators. They can only
> be removed by dipping as performed on bodies and frames. It is likely
> even more pin holes will them appear. Paying someone $200.00 for
> soldering is likely to effective for only a time. The thin spots in the
> tank will continue to rust and will eventually create holes. Sloshing
> compounds are very harmful to many older cars fuel and carb. systems. Do
> not use them. It's a quick fix that will cause clogging in the future.
> The only and best way short of installing a new tank is to send the tank
> to one the Tank-Renu outlets (no financial interest etc.), where they
> will be dipped, repaired and coated both inside and out with a teflon
> material that is impervious to fuel. They advertise in Hemmings. I had
> my TR4A tank done for about $175.00, and its been fine for nearly 5
> years. I have also had other tanks done on classic and antique cars.
> Good luck. Jerry Oliver.
> Winnie Olmer wrote:
> >
> > The bottom of my TR6 tank has about 10-15 pinholes. The largest being 1/16"
> > dia. The metal around the pinholes seems solid enough if there is a way to
> > patch the holes and stop the rust. I have Eastwoods fuel tank sealer, but I
> > need a way to seal the outside. Is there a gas resistant epoxy paste sort of
> > product that can be used?
> >
> > Thanks
> > Winnie
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