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Re: flasher modules

To: Sirmoog@ix.netcom.com, triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Subject: Re: flasher modules
From: DANMAS <DANMAS@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 13:23:35 EDT
Sirmoog,

A couple of items come to mind.  I assume the turn signals work OK?  The first
thing to check is the wiring to the relay and the flasher.  Trace the colors,
using the schematic, and verify the proper color wires are attached to the
appropriate terminals.  

Next, disconnect the flasher module, and turn the hazard switch on, while
listening to see if the relay operates.  If it doesn't, then you either have a
break in the wiring somewhere, or you have a bad relay.  

To test the relay, place a jumper from the W2 terminal (with the black wire)
to a good ground point.  Then place a jumper from the plus battery post to the
W1 terminal (with the purple/red wire).  If the relay is good, you should hear
it click.  If it doesn't click, then it is bad, and needs to be replaced.  

Even though the relay clicks, the internal contacts may be bad.  To test the
relay contacts, with the relay energized (as above), connect a jumper from the
W1 terminal (p/r wire) to the C2 terminal (light green/pink wire).  If the
contacts are good, all of the flasher lights should be on.  If the lights do
not come on, then either the relay contacts are bad, or the wiring to the
lights is bad.  

To determine if it is the relay contacts or the wiring, repeat the above test,
but place a voltmeter or a test lamp on the C1 and the C3 (or C4, depending on
your relay) contacts, and check for voltage when the relay is on.  If you have
voltage, the contact are *probably* good. I say *probably* because you can get
voltage, but still not get enough current to operate the lights.

If you have voltage, but the lights still don't work, then, with the turn
signal switch OFF (position of the hazard switch doesn't matter), jumper from
the battery plus terminal to first the C1 (right side) and then to the C3
(left side) terminals.  If the lights work when you do this, then the relay
contacts are bad.  If not, then the wiring is bad.

It is not necessary to run the above tests in that order, but you get the idea
of what needs to be done.

If all this works, then the only thing left is the flasher module itself, or
the wiring to/from the flasher.

Exercise caution when making the jumper connections, just in case there is a
short somewhere.  You might want to put a 10 - 15 amp fuse in the jumper wires
(not needed in the jumper from W2 to ground).  Or, just be very carefull and
watch for sparks.

Sooner or later, your new hazard switch is going to give you problems.  After
you use it someday, and turn it back off, the turn signals won't work.
Guaranteed.  There is a simple cure for this, involving a simple switch from
Radio shack and a few pieces of wire.  If you are interested, let me know and
I will send the details.  I have modified my car this way.  The original
switch can be left in place for originality sake, and the new switch hidden
under the dash, in an accessible but out of site position, if you prefer.

I hope I have covered everything, but if not, let me know and I will add it.

Dan

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