Peter Mchugh wrote:
> Triumphtune in the UK has a neat upper shock mount mod, a bracket
> which mounts to the top of the rear frame towers and replaces the
> upper mounts completely. You have to buy new, shorter shocks, but
> the mod has several good advantages. a) The shock is no longer
> mounted to the tub of the car (reduces flex and noise); b) The
> constant working of the shock isn't expressed on the welds in the
> inner fender (which, considering the quality of my welding, is a real
> plus). I don't have the part numbers handy...but perhaps some other
> lister could provide them for you.
>
> You need to remove the carpets and padding...if for no other reason
> than to check for rust...but surely if you decide to do any welding.
>
> Triumptune also has a negative camber rear spring and faster rate
> front springs...all of which make a nice package to up grade your
> suspension.
>
> The front sway bar I chose is a 1 inch bar...the original GT-6 bar is
> smaller than 5/8th inch...I think that the Spit 1500 bar is a 5/8th
> inch bar...and is an improvement over the stock GT-6 equipment.
>
> The radius arm brackets move inward about two inches...all the floor
> pans I've seen have a recess pressed in them to clear both the inner
> and outer positioning of these brackets, so if you don't have access
> to a rotoflex GT-6 for measurements you should be able to get close
> enough by using the inner recesses as center points. Seems to me
> you'll have to find new brackets since the angle to the suspension
> will be different in the new position. Also, my Mark II/III cars have
> a robust support bracket (heelboard) welded to the inner face of the
> tub cross member at the point where the brackets bolt in place (Vicky
> Brit Part 11-673) so you'll need to do more than just drill the holes
> for the bracket bolts.
>
> What you contemplate is doable, and will improve your handling...but
> considering the strain on the rear suspension you'll want to do the
> job right.
>
Peter, thanks for the input. I had pretty much decided to
get the shock brackets that bolt onto the crossmember from
Triumphtune. A guy in my club has a recent catalog. I
hadn't considered that I might need shorter shocks. I will
deal with that later. I am going to order new rotoflex
joints from my favorite mail order parts place, they aren't
all that expensive and I don't want to take a chance on one
failing.
Andy Mace suggested drilling out the spot welds on the
reinforcing plates for the radius arm brackets and moving
them over. I already have the brackets with the sharper
angle. I have heard mixed opinions on the heavier sway
bar so I may save that for later. I have access to a
rotoflex car so I can take measurements. My car is an
early '67 so it won't have but one set of recesses.
My car spent most of its life in the desert and I painted
the floors with asphalt paint (eeek, not that thread again!)
so rust isn't a big problem.
Dave
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