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The sensors work backwards to what you are thinking. High temps or high
fuel levels produce lower sensor resistances, therefore more current to
heat the heater that bends the bimetal strip that moves the pointer. If
there was a higher resistance in the path, that would produce a lower gauge
reading. A high reading indicates that there is a too low resistance
somewhere, a short or something. Are you sure you have the right temp
sensor?
If your regulator is the stock type, it should be switching at a low
frequency, several times a second, bouncing the pointer of an analog meter
around. The on/off ratio causes the voltage, that's either 12V or 0, to
average out to 10V.
Stu
On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at 7:09 PM, Larry Mayfield via Tigers <
tigers@autox.team.net> wrote:
> As promised yesterday, I said I would send along resolution when acquired=
.
> Today I declared success! I started the morning will all the gauges exce=
pt
> the OP gage hanging loose on their wires. By the way, why is the OP gauge
> such a beast to remove? I digress.
>
>
>
> I did a lot of voltage and ground checks and found those that needed to b=
e
> connected that were not. I had been using one that is just behind the Fu=
el
> Gauge coming out of the main harness as it is a black wire and has the sa=
me
> end as the daisy chained ground wires. I traced the real temp ground to
> the bolt head on the dash brace just under the voltage stabilizer. The
> daisy wire to the fuel gauge broke off, lol as I was handling it. So fab=
=E2=80=99d
> a new one. I checked the ground wire coming from the harness to body
> ground. Open circuit. Have no idea as to where it actually goes now. I
> found that the voltage stabilizer itself was loosely mounted as well.
> Tightened it up. I took all the light switches out and examined them. Al=
l
> in order. Applied power to the ignition, the lights, and the panel lights=
.
> All lights now work and that includes all small indicator lights. I have
> fully functional dash now and it is back together. Putting the meters bac=
k
> into place is, as mentioned difficult for an old geezer like me. So I
> removed the driver=E2=80=99s seat and the steering wheel so that I could =
at least
> get under that side of the dash. Worked like a charm.
>
>
>
> I may still need to invest in a voltage stabilizer though. The temp reads
> high when turned on but that could be to a high resistance connection at
> the sensor. Fuel ditto. But I suspect that it is all due to the
> instrument voltage regulator. Fuel level seem about right for what I put
> in but a gallon less on gage would be better and that is about the
> difference in reading from a 12 supplied system vs a 10 volt one.
>
>
>
> I appreciate all the help given to me and I hope you all did have a good
> laugh at my expense, lol. Sometimes it was hilarious to me trying to figu=
re
> this out. I have some photos of the car on my cell and I will download
> onto my computer and shoot a couple of photos to the list.
>
>
>
> Next will be a new fuel pump, building of Master brake and clutch
> cylinders and the slave associated with them. Parts on order from CAT.
> Fuel [ump will likely be a Carter unit with about 35 gallon flow at about=
5
> psig. And washing the engine bay! I had the car painted in 2010 and it i=
s
> full of gunk. I have some LAT valve covers that need to be repolished (P=
O
> of the valve covers had them sand blasted). I have the Tiger oil pan as
> well. And the original Jerry Ballenger headers only Jet Hot coated.
> Traction masters from Mr. Wheatley long ago gone. LAT wheels to be replac=
ed
> by some 15 inch ones that I had painted grey with a beauty color pin stri=
pe
> around the rim. Has shoulder belts new for safety also although I need to
> mod the mount slightly, my fold down soft top hide wont fold down enough,
> New rag top in hand and hard top same as car color. Four new E=E2=80=99bo=
ck shocks.
> Car currently has 3.54 rear gears with posi trac. And a box stock (nearl=
y_
> 260 as from the factory. Slight carb mod, and few trivial items, same
> internal as delivered. But, I also have a 289 5 bolt race motor I used i=
n
> the 60=E2=80=99s and a new salt flats 260 motor with EFI I could put in. =
Both
> require race gas though. The 289 needs to be refreshed a lot. Other one
> ins not broken in as yet. And if challenged enough I could put together
> another 302 motor with my Salt car pieces including large HP 72 turbo for=
a
> LOT of hp and tq. Traction is the issue now, lol. Fun stuff for an old g=
uy=E2=80=A6
>
>
>
> mayf
>
> and again, many thanks to the list!
>
> _________________________
> drmayf
> Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
> 204.913 mph flying mile
> 210.779 mph exit (not top) speed
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> tigers@autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/tigers/sabre2tgr@
> gmail.com
>
>
>
>
--94eb2c095ca2ab7118053ce7a9cb
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">The=
sensors work backwards to what you are thinking.=C2=A0 High temps or high =
fuel levels produce lower sensor resistances, therefore more current to hea=
t the heater that bends the bimetal strip that moves the pointer.=C2=A0 If =
there was a higher resistance in the path, that would produce a lower gauge=
reading.=C2=A0 A high reading indicates that there is a too low resistance=
somewhere, a short or something.=C2=A0 Are you sure you have the right tem=
p sensor?</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><br><=
/div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">If your regulat=
or is the stock type, it should be switching at a low frequency, several ti=
mes a second, bouncing the pointer of an analog meter around. The on/off ra=
tio causes the voltage, that's either 12V or 0, to average out to 10V.<=
/div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small"><br></div><div =
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">Stu</div></div><div class=
=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Mon, Sep 19, 2016 at 7:0=
9 PM, Larry Mayfield via Tigers <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:tig=
ers@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">tigers@autox.team.net</a>></span> =
wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;bord=
er-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div bgcolor=3D"white" background=
=3D"cid:image001.jpg@01D2128C.49FD63B0" lang=3D"EN-US" link=3D"#990066" vli=
nk=3D"#CC6633"><img src=3D"cid:image001.jpg@01D2128C.49FD63B0" width=3D"0" =
height=3D"0" style=3D"display:none;width:0;min-height:0"><div><p class=3D"M=
soNormal">As promised yesterday, I said I would send along resolution when =
acquired. Today I declared success!=C2=A0 I started the morning will all th=
e gauges except the OP gage hanging loose on their wires. By the way, why i=
s the OP gauge such a beast to remove? I digress. <u></u><u></u></p><p clas=
s=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">I did a lot =
of voltage and ground checks and found those that needed to be connected th=
at were not.=C2=A0 I had been using one that is just behind the Fuel Gauge =
coming out of the main harness as it is a black wire and has the same end a=
s the daisy chained ground wires.=C2=A0 I traced the real temp ground to th=
e bolt head on the dash brace just under the voltage stabilizer. The daisy =
wire to the fuel gauge broke off, lol as I was handling it. So fab=E2=80=99=
d a new one.=C2=A0 I checked the ground wire coming from the harness to bod=
y ground. Open circuit. Have no idea as to where it actually goes now. I fo=
und that the voltage stabilizer itself was loosely mounted as well. Tighten=
ed it up.=C2=A0 I took all the light switches out and examined them. All in=
order. Applied power to the ignition, the lights, and the panel lights. Al=
l lights now work and that includes all small indicator lights. I have full=
y functional dash now and it is back together. Putting the meters back into=
place is, as mentioned difficult for an old geezer like me. So I removed t=
he driver=E2=80=99s seat and the steering wheel so that I could at least ge=
t under that side of the dash. Worked like a charm. <u></u><u></u></p><p cl=
ass=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">I may stil=
l need to invest in a voltage stabilizer though. The temp reads high when t=
urned on but that could be to a high resistance connection at the sensor. =
=C2=A0=C2=A0Fuel ditto. But I suspect that it is all due to the instrument =
voltage regulator.=C2=A0 Fuel level seem about right for what I put in but =
a gallon less on gage would be better and that is about the difference in r=
eading from a 12 supplied system vs a 10 volt one. =C2=A0<u></u><u></u></p>=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">I app=
reciate all the help given to me and I hope you all did have a good laugh a=
t my expense, lol. Sometimes it was hilarious to me trying to figure this o=
ut.=C2=A0 I have some photos of the car on my cell and I will download onto=
my computer and shoot a couple of photos to the list. <u></u><u></u></p><p=
class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Next wi=
ll be a new fuel pump, building of Master brake and clutch cylinders and th=
e slave associated with them. Parts on order from CAT.=C2=A0 Fuel [ump will=
likely be a Carter unit with about 35 gallon flow at about 5 psig.=C2=A0 A=
nd washing the engine bay! I had the car painted in 2010 and it is full of =
gunk.=C2=A0 I have some LAT valve covers that need to be repolished (PO of =
the valve covers had them sand blasted).=C2=A0 I have the Tiger oil pan as =
well.=C2=A0 And the original Jerry Ballenger headers only Jet Hot coated.=
=C2=A0 Traction masters from Mr. Wheatley long ago gone. LAT wheels to be r=
eplaced by some 15 inch ones that I had painted grey with a beauty color pi=
n stripe around the rim. Has shoulder belts new for safety also although I =
need to mod the mount slightly, my fold down soft top hide wont fold down e=
nough, New rag top in hand and hard top same as car color. Four new E=E2=80=
=99bock shocks. Car currently has 3.54 rear gears with posi trac.=C2=A0 And=
a box stock (nearly_ 260 as from the factory. Slight carb mod, and few tri=
vial items, same internal as delivered.=C2=A0 But, I also have a 289 5 bolt=
race motor I used in the 60=E2=80=99s and a new salt flats 260 motor with =
EFI I could put in. Both require race gas though.=C2=A0 The 289 needs to be=
refreshed a lot. Other one ins not broken in as yet.=C2=A0 And if challeng=
ed enough I could put together another 302 motor with my Salt car pieces in=
cluding large HP 72 turbo for a LOT of hp and tq.=C2=A0 Traction is the iss=
ue now, lol. Fun stuff for an old guy=E2=80=A6<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D=
"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">mayf<u></u><u></=
u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">and again, many thanks to the list!<u></u><u><=
/u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&=
quot;Calibri",sans-serif">_________________________<br>drmayf<br>World=
s Fastest Sunbeam, period.<br>204.913 mph flying mile<br>210.779 mph exit (=
not top)=C2=A0 speed<u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=
=C2=A0<u></u></p></div></div><br>______________________________<wbr>_______=
__________<br>
<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:tigers@autox.team.net";>tigers@autox.team.net</a><br>
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ailman/<wbr>options/tigers/sabre2tgr@<wbr>gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>
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