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As promised yesterday, I said I would send along resolution when acquired.
Today I declared success! I started the morning will all the gauges except
the OP gage hanging loose on their wires. By the way, why is the OP gauge
such a beast to remove? I digress.
I did a lot of voltage and ground checks and found those that needed to be
connected that were not. I had been using one that is just behind the Fuel
Gauge coming out of the main harness as it is a black wire and has the same
end as the daisy chained ground wires. I traced the real temp ground to the
bolt head on the dash brace just under the voltage stabilizer. The daisy
wire to the fuel gauge broke off, lol as I was handling it. So fab'd a new
one. I checked the ground wire coming from the harness to body ground. Open
circuit. Have no idea as to where it actually goes now. I found that the
voltage stabilizer itself was loosely mounted as well. Tightened it up. I
took all the light switches out and examined them. All in order. Applied
power to the ignition, the lights, and the panel lights. All lights now work
and that includes all small indicator lights. I have fully functional dash
now and it is back together. Putting the meters back into place is, as
mentioned difficult for an old geezer like me. So I removed the driver's
seat and the steering wheel so that I could at least get under that side of
the dash. Worked like a charm.
I may still need to invest in a voltage stabilizer though. The temp reads
high when turned on but that could be to a high resistance connection at the
sensor. Fuel ditto. But I suspect that it is all due to the instrument
voltage regulator. Fuel level seem about right for what I put in but a
gallon less on gage would be better and that is about the difference in
reading from a 12 supplied system vs a 10 volt one.
I appreciate all the help given to me and I hope you all did have a good
laugh at my expense, lol. Sometimes it was hilarious to me trying to figure
this out. I have some photos of the car on my cell and I will download onto
my computer and shoot a couple of photos to the list.
Next will be a new fuel pump, building of Master brake and clutch cylinders
and the slave associated with them. Parts on order from CAT. Fuel [ump will
likely be a Carter unit with about 35 gallon flow at about 5 psig. And
washing the engine bay! I had the car painted in 2010 and it is full of
gunk. I have some LAT valve covers that need to be repolished (PO of the
valve covers had them sand blasted). I have the Tiger oil pan as well. And
the original Jerry Ballenger headers only Jet Hot coated. Traction masters
from Mr. Wheatley long ago gone. LAT wheels to be replaced by some 15 inch
ones that I had painted grey with a beauty color pin stripe around the rim.
Has shoulder belts new for safety also although I need to mod the mount
slightly, my fold down soft top hide wont fold down enough, New rag top in
hand and hard top same as car color. Four new E'bock shocks. Car currently
has 3.54 rear gears with posi trac. And a box stock (nearly_ 260 as from
the factory. Slight carb mod, and few trivial items, same internal as
delivered. But, I also have a 289 5 bolt race motor I used in the 60's and
a new salt flats 260 motor with EFI I could put in. Both require race gas
though. The 289 needs to be refreshed a lot. Other one ins not broken in as
yet. And if challenged enough I could put together another 302 motor with
my Salt car pieces including large HP 72 turbo for a LOT of hp and tq.
Traction is the issue now, lol. Fun stuff for an old guy.
mayf
and again, many thanks to the list!
_________________________
drmayf
Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.
204.913 mph flying mile
210.779 mph exit (not top) speed
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type=3D"frame" />
</v:background></xml><![endif]--><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>As promised yesterday, I said I would send along =
resolution when acquired. Today I declared success! I started the =
morning will all the gauges except the OP gage hanging loose on their =
wires. By the way, why is the OP gauge such a beast to remove? I =
digress. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>I did a lot of voltage and ground checks and found =
those that needed to be connected that were not. I had been using =
one that is just behind the Fuel Gauge coming out of the main harness as =
it is a black wire and has the same end as the daisy chained ground =
wires. I traced the real temp ground to the bolt head on the dash =
brace just under the voltage stabilizer. The daisy wire to the fuel =
gauge broke off, lol as I was handling it. So fab’d a new one. =
I checked the ground wire coming from the harness to body ground. =
Open circuit. Have no idea as to where it actually goes now. I found =
that the voltage stabilizer itself was loosely mounted as well. =
Tightened it up. I took all the light switches out and examined =
them. All in order. Applied power to the ignition, the lights, and the =
panel lights. All lights now work and that includes all small indicator =
lights. I have fully functional dash now and it is back together. =
Putting the meters back into place is, as mentioned difficult for an old =
geezer like me. So I removed the driver’s seat and the steering =
wheel so that I could at least get under that side of the dash. Worked =
like a charm. <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I may still =
need to invest in a voltage stabilizer though. The temp reads high when =
turned on but that could be to a high resistance connection at the =
sensor. Fuel ditto. But I suspect that it is all due to the =
instrument voltage regulator. Fuel level seem about right for what =
I put in but a gallon less on gage would be better and that is about the =
difference in reading from a 12 supplied system vs a 10 volt one. =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>I appreciate all the help given to me and I hope you =
all did have a good laugh at my expense, lol. Sometimes it was hilarious =
to me trying to figure this out. I have some photos of the car on =
my cell and I will download onto my computer and shoot a couple of =
photos to the list. <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Next will be =
a new fuel pump, building of Master brake and clutch cylinders and the =
slave associated with them. Parts on order from CAT. Fuel [ump =
will likely be a Carter unit with about 35 gallon flow at about 5 psig. =
And washing the engine bay! I had the car painted in 2010 and it =
is full of gunk. I have some LAT valve covers that need to be =
repolished (PO of the valve covers had them sand blasted). I have =
the Tiger oil pan as well. And the original Jerry Ballenger =
headers only Jet Hot coated. Traction masters from Mr. Wheatley =
long ago gone. LAT wheels to be replaced by some 15 inch ones that I had =
painted grey with a beauty color pin stripe around the rim. Has shoulder =
belts new for safety also although I need to mod the mount slightly, my =
fold down soft top hide wont fold down enough, New rag top in hand and =
hard top same as car color. Four new E’bock shocks. Car currently =
has 3.54 rear gears with posi trac. And a box stock (nearly_ 260 =
as from the factory. Slight carb mod, and few trivial items, same =
internal as delivered. But, I also have a 289 5 bolt race motor I =
used in the 60’s and a new salt flats 260 motor with EFI I could =
put in. Both require race gas though. The 289 needs to be =
refreshed a lot. Other one ins not broken in as yet. And if =
challenged enough I could put together another 302 motor with my Salt =
car pieces including large HP 72 turbo for a LOT of hp and tq. =
Traction is the issue now, lol. Fun stuff for an old =
guy…<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>mayf<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>and again, =
many thanks to the list!<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>_____________=
____________<br>drmayf<br>Worlds Fastest Sunbeam, period.<br>204.913 mph =
flying mile<br>210.779 mph exit (not top) =
speed<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>
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