Michael,
here I am again. We'll try to comment on this problem.
Wilf has been in body restorations for most of his life. Without seeing the car,
what you are describing seems to be way above your capabilities to be able to
handle the repairs yourself. You'll probably also don't have the tools or the
facilities for the job.
The way it looks, panels have to replaced, or partly replaced, which includes
welding. Aluminum [aloominum]and mesh repairs are for the amateur and will not
stand up. Your car deserves better. You should find out, what lies beneath the
auto body filler and paint, to assess the condition of the body, before you
agree
to repairs with the local panel beater. It could be costly.
Before you do any more work, or spray anything, we have the feeling, that you
have to repair the metal first. Rust will prevail, it always does. You seem to
have a lot of damage everywhere.
Replacement of the sills is of a difficult nature in a convertible.
Sorry, bad news.
Wilf and Liv
67 Spit
Michael Hargreave Mawson wrote:
> Dear All,
>
> With the exception of one broken part (o/s under-rider) and two missing
> parts (the little chrome corners for the rear windscreen trim on the
> hard-top), the only thing wrong with Carly now is bodywork rust. This
> I intend to deal with sometime this year and I need your opinions and
> advice.
>
> Firstly, let me say that I am the world's worst body-repairer. Try as I
> might, whatever effort I put in, or technique I use, pretty much all of
> my body repairs are rust within six months. I'd like to blame this on
> the fact that I have no facilities, and have always done body repairs on
> the roadside (or, if very lucky, in my parents' garage), using bastard
> files, sandpaper, Isopon P38, aluminium (aloominum) mesh, Rust
> Preventative, and several coats of spray paint, but I suspect the
> problem is with me, and not with my tools. Last summer, I did some
> repairs using a new method - stripping back to bare metal as before,
> filling as before, but then painting with two coats of Hammerite before
> spraying with "Rover" Inca Yellow. Those seem to have survived the
> winter. Amazing - not to mention inspiring.
>
> The problem areas I need to address are as follows:
>
> Bonnet (Hood)
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> Rust bubbling through on the leading edge of the bonnet (hood) on the
> driver's side.
> Rust-coloured stain along weld with wings
> Rusting bare metal where paint has fallen off around retaining clamps
> and where the bonnet meets the tops of the sills.
>
> Windscreen frame (Windshield frame)
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> Both pillars have rust bubbling through on both of their sides
>
> Doors
> ^^^^^
> Bottom edges of door skins have rust bubbling through
> Chips to trailing edges of doors
>
> Rear Wings and wheel arches
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> Wheel arches are shot on both sides, and have been bodge-repaired with
> aluminium (aloominum) mesh and filler in the past.
> Bottom rear of O/S wing appears to have been sculpted out of filler.
> God knows what other horrors lie beneath the paintwork.
>
> My questions are as follows:
>
> Does anyone recommend that I try and do any of this myself, given my
> track record?
>
> If so, what areas do you think I might be able to tackle, and what do I
> need to do to ensure a long-lasting rust-free repair?
>
> New rear wings, or just new wheel arches? Which is most cost-effective
> in the long term?
>
> ATB
>
> --
> Mike
> Michael Hargreave Mawson, author of "Eyewitness in the Crimea"
> http://www.greenhillbooks.com/booksheets/eyewitness_in_the_crimea.html
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