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Re: [Bricklin] Air Pump wire recommendataions

To: Greg Schroeder <gschroeder@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Bricklin] Air Pump wire recommendataions
From: Seth <sbunin@cablespeed.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 20:40:51 -0500
Greg,

the 325C has a max draw of 19amps at 13.8volts.

The specs from their site (probably won't make it through the list):
PSI                 CFM         Current   
0       1.77    9       
        
        
10      1.48    11      
        
        
20      1.34    13      
        
        
30      1.27    14      
        
        
40      1.22    15      
        
        
50      1.17    16      
        
        
60      1.11    17      
        
        
70      1.06    17      
        
        
80      1.02    17      
        
        
90      0.99    18      
        
        
100     0.95    18      
        
        
110     0.92    19      
        
        
120     0.88    19      
130     0.85    19      
140     0.79    19      
150     0.76    19





















I'm guessing your run is less than 15feet. The minimum wire gauge for
that current and length is 14 gauge. Personally, I always like to go 
overkill so
I'd probably go with 12 gauge. If you go with 12 gauge, it's good to 25 amps
at a 15 foot run (good to 40 amps in a 10 foot run).

So my  suggestion:
       12 gauge wire and a 25 amp fuse.

By the way,  I've got a 325C in my car and I went with 12 gauge.

Also, if you haven't put one in, I'd really suggest installing an on/off 
switch. I found
a very durable weatherproof three way switch that I installed in the 
driver's fender (switch
in the wheel well). I've got it wired so one position is off. Another is 
tied to ignition voltage
(keyed), and the last position is tied to battery. The normal position 
is in the ignition position
so the pump will only come on when the vehicle is running. If however I 
come out to my car
and the air tank is empty, I can switch it to the battery position and 
it will charge up my air
tank so I'm not stuck outside the car. The last switch let's me shut the 
system down completely.
The switch drives the low side of a relay through the standard pressure 
switch (I think I'm running
a 110-145psi switch). The high side is what powers the pump and is tied 
directly to battery.
I've attached a simple wiring schematic to illustrate what I'm talking 
about.

Seth
#1544



Greg Schroeder wrote:
> I had replaced my original pump with a Viair 325.  I also installed an inline
> fuse.  If the tank is empty and I try to pump it up I am blowing the fuse and
> the wire is getting hot.  I feel I need to use a thicker wire with this pump
> as compared to the other one since the amp draw appears to be higher.  I could
> not find any information on Viair site, but found a install kit with a 12
> gauge wire.  What would someone recommend for a replacement wire and inline
> fuse amperage.
>
> Greg 0036
> _______________________________________________

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 
Bricklin Compressor Wiring.jpg]
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