Bill:
You may have a suspension joint that has tightened up due to rust,
grease evaporation, or a mouse nest. I would check for free movement
on all four corners. If there is binding in the rear then oversteer
could result. Also, verify that the rear isn't going into toe-out
under power due to a failed joint.
Also possible loss of gas pressure in one or more shock?
It seems unlikely that a slightly narrower rear tire could cause a
massive change. (unless you have the fronts and rears swapped! :-)
Greg S
Ralt RT5 - BM
At 10:09 AM 12/27/2007, you wrote:
>Thanx for the replies guys but I don't think anyone's
>quite hit the nail on the head.
>
>Karrake: Bumpsteer correction was part of the
>origninal baseline...don't see how it could change.
>All camber, caster, toe and height settings are back
>to baseline.
>
>Don: I've always run Hoosier 25A's. The car
>currently has massive oversteer on the same surfaces
>where it once was neutral. Yes, I have experimented
>with lowering rear ride height and more rear toe-in to
>combat the oversteer and they do help a little. But
>what I'm trying to run down is what caused a
>previously neutral car to go way loose when I'm not
>aware of any physical changes other than whatever tire
>evolution has taken place.
>
>Bill: You kind of make my point. Even with crap
>front tires and new rear tires the car oversteers.
>Yes I could put new tires on the front, but I don't
>see any possibility that that could bring the car into
>balance -- the front sticks too good now and new
>fronts would have to grip less than the old.
>
>Again, I realize there are things I can do to bring
>the car back to balanced and I'll do them. But right
>now I'm just trying to find a logical reason for
>what's changed. The current rears are noticeably
>narrower than they used to be, so my suspicions run in
>that direction.
>
> -- Bill
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