Bill,
I agree with Don. My car had understeer at the point when Hoosier
changed their rear tire. I had been in the midst of making changes to
eliminate the understeer at a series of event but hadn't finished. But
when I put the new tires on the car with no other changes, the car
stopped understeering.
The new Hoosier (introduced in 2006? late 2005?), had a smaller rear
tire to help with aero. Your 2 year old front tires must not be too
heat cycled? Generally, my fronts last longer than my rears anyway.
Jim
Don55CM@aol.com wrote:
> Bill,
>
> What tires you are running will make a big difference. When I switched from
> GoodYear to Hoosier in '03 the car was much looser and had to be dialed in
> again. The latest Hoosier tires seem to be more surface sensitive for some
> reason. The setup that works great on grippy concrete is extremely loose on
> asphalt, and vice-versa. It's possible that you might need to buy some
>stiffer
> front springs. But the first thing I would check is your ride heights. You
> may be able to dial the car in just by lowering the rear end a little.
>
> Don
>
>
>
> **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes
> Kinda puzzled here. Bought a Lola T540 many years
> ago, set up for solo (then national champion). Made a
> lot of experimental changes over the years but I was
> always able to return to original baseline with good
> results. But I only drive the car occasionally.
>
> Recently baseline gives undriveable oversteer and I
> can't figure out what's happened. I'm at max ft
> swaybar and disco'd rear swaybar and shocks set for
> full understeer. Can barely control the oversteer.
> I've put on new rear tires leaving 2-year old fronts
> on with no improvement.
>
> Obviously I can change springs, but I shouldn't have
> to. UNLESS: have Hoosier FF tires changed
> dramatically the last couple years, and rears no
> longer produce earlier grip?
>
> Thanx, Bill
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