Tim and anyone concerned:
I too also have had the same concerns with the clutch when I bought my 74 it
came with clutch disengaging way down on the floor.
I was told by the DPO that the clutch parts were all new.Don't of know
the brand but it was not an enjoyable drive,after studing everything it
seemed that the only cause could be the clutch so I ended up buying a new
clutch(Borg & Beck) this helped very little.
my final solution was using a clutch master Cylinder pushrod from a
spitfire which is a little longer and gives a little more stroke from the
cylinder. Then I was able to go to the third hole on the fork lever thus
reducing the pressure required to operate the creature, I realize that it is
only a bandaid to the problem as the cylinder piston will bottom in the
cylinder before the pedal hits the floor, but it worked.
Since I have been driving the car off and on for the past four months I
now believe that I could reinstall the old TR6 pushrod back into the
cylinder because the pedal has seemed to have risen from the disengagment
point that it had when I began.
Maybe this can be of use to some one.
Brooks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Timothy Holbrook" <tjh173@yahoo.com>
To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2001 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: smooth ride, clutch stuff
> Dick,
>
> How did you measure the force needed to disengage the clutch? Maybe I
> could do the same on mine and see if my clutch is tighter. I'm not
> saying that mine is impossible to disengage or that I have a giant left
> leg, but it definitely seems much to hard considering the engine's size
> and power. Quite seriously, my clutch is harder to use than a Mustang
> Cobra. I have the magic clutch though, what pressure plate is this? I
> believe its a Sachs, right? If you have a B&B, then I guess we
> wouldn't be comparing apples and apples.
>
> As far as the clutch biting right off the floor, I have already
> addressed slop in the pedal linkage, this is much improved over how it
> once was. And the bottom end (clutch fork, etc) is also new. I don't
> really know what the problem is....
>
> The clutch is not jerky in its action or hanging up at all, it's just
> difficult to bring it in gradually since it bights so close off the
> floor and the pedal pressure is so high. Once I let off a little bit
> of pressure to bring the clutch in, it engages almost immediately and
> the clutch pressure is very high.
>
> Tim Holbrook
> 1971 TR6
>
>
> --- Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor@webtv.net> wrote:
> > Jay---First to answer your concern about the Toyota T/O possibly
> > being
> > harder to operate due to its larger diameter. I too thought this was
> > going to be an issue, so before installing it I compared the pounds
> > of
> > force necessary to disengage the clutch as compared to the standard
> > bearing (diam.) To my surprise it took 280 lb. to release them both.
> > This is with the B&B pressure plate and disk. I don't have the Sachs
> > or
> > Laycock, but understand the Laycock to be lighter.
> >
> > The heavier the clutch, the more pressure will be placed on the
> > crank's
> > thrust washers. But since I have NEVER had a problem in chewing up
> > thrust washers, and have used the B&B clutches for 20 years or so, I
> > can't put any blame here. If you and Tim find the release point right
> > off the floor, there is obviously something different about your
> > setup.
> > When the linkage in the pedal box is relatively play -free your
> > disengagement/engagement point should be about one inch from the
> > floor,
> > and you should not find it jerky or sudden. I can also push the
> > pedal
> > to the floor with one hand, and I've never been confused with
> > Hercules.
> > Be sure all other points of heavy friction have been dealt with, such
> > as
> > good clutch arm bearings and pre-greased. Same with the clevis pins.
> > It
> > is not necessary to have a left leg larger than the right to drive a
> > TR6.
> >
> > Dick Taylor
> > '73
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