You can tell when you have a bad t/o bearing because it makes a quiet
squeaking (almost a whistle) at first, then gets really rough over time
(you can feel it in the pedal when hitting the clutch) and makes
horrible noises. A vibration would be caused by chatter, as you noted.
Not sure what the problem is...
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- "James A. Tabor" <jatabor@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I am curious...
> Is the sign of trouble a bad vibration in first or reverse
> when let the clutch out? Or is this totally a different problem?
> I had this trouble and was told I was experiencing clutch chatter.
> And I should replace the components and have the fly wheel
> resurfaced,
> and make sure it is torqued down properly. Well, for the first 6,000
> miles this was fine, but now the chatter is back...not super bad but
> could get worse.
>
> Does this sound like a bad TO bearing?
>
> -James
>
>
> >From: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
> >Reply-To: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
> >To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> >Subject: Re: smooth ride, clutch stuff
> >Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 12:00:42 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >The stock-grade throwout bearings have been complete junk for the
> past
> >few years. No matter how you press them onto the sleeves, they fall
> >apart in just a few thousand miles, if that. I went through 4 t/o
> >bearings in a few months during 1997, and finally put in one of the
> >heavy-duty bearings made for Toyota Land Cruiser. Haven't had a
> >problem since. TRF sells this bearing as part of their "magic
> clutch"
> >kit with Sachs components (probably the same part that your mechanic
> is
> >using). Several TR parts suppliers are selling this kit. I would
> >caution anyone who needs to replace a t/o bearing, don't use the
> >standard grade bearings. I have heard nothing but complaints, and
> had
> >several problems myself.
> >
> >Tim Holbrook
> >1971 TR6
> >
> >--- RPVanLuchene@lbl.gov wrote:
> > > Well I got my car back the other day and the car drives
> > > beautifully. Immediately noticed it as I drove away from the shop
> and
> > > onto the Bay Bridge. It is amazing how tight it feels. THe tube
> > > conversion kit was the one-piece bracket type with KYB gas
> shocks. I
> > > also had new inner U joints put in and new diff mounts installed.
> Up
> > > front I got new shocks and new upper ball joints. Along with my
> > > recently
> > > restored wheels with new Coker redlines, the car is one smooth
> ride,
> > > with perfect stiffness. I don't know how I have gone this long
> with
> > > my
> > > old worn-out setup - I guess I diddnt know what a "right" car was
> > > supposed to feel like -
> > >
> > > I'm also still having clutch disengagement problems and talked
> > > to the mechanic about it. He's been working on TR's for 30 years
> and
> > > never had a problem with TR clutches until recently, about the
> last
> > > 2-3
> > > years. The throw out bearings have been bad - he said he talked
> to
> > > someone at TRF about it and they told him he was intalling the TO
> > > bearing into the sleeve incorrectly (he uses wood to do this I
> think)
> > > he said well OK you guys put the bearing in the sleeve your way
> > > and send it to me and he'll install it in a car. Well the bearing
> > > ended
> > > up failing and they wouldnt take it back! I told him someone
> needs to
> > > talk to the manufacturer about this, b/c I know of a lotta others
> who
> > > are having the same problems. More recently he has been using
> > > a Japanese TO bearing made by a company called AP with a Sachs
> > > pressure
> > > plate and standard or Sachs clutch plate. It seems to have been
> > > working
> > > well for his other customers.
> > > I'm going to try it out in a few weeks - hopefully this will be a
> > > solid
> > > fix. Will update the list more on this as it progresses.
> > > I hope to have it finished before the Monterey weekend. I plan on
> > > going
> > > to the Concorso Italiano and maybe some of the races.
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > > Ryan
> > > 6/71 Sapphire
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> Messenger
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>
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